Stuffed Ravioli

Happy New Year

The meal is different but this is a reprint of last year's New Year's Eve post... I can only wax poetically about new years so much...

If my mom ever cooked anything special for the new year, I really don’t remember it. The first time I recall hearing about good luck New Year’s foods was when I was in the Navy. Working with lots of guys from down south, Hoppin’ John entered my vocabulary. As I got older and moved around the country, more traditions arrived.

When I lived at Lake Tahoe, working for the Hyatt, I worked with a lot of Mexicans. They made tamales and brought them in for everyone to share. Somewhere, I remember King Cake – that was probably Boston. Black-eyed peas and cornbread followed me around the USofA, and landing in Pennsylvania, it became Pork and Sauerkraut. Victor would divorce me if I ever made pork and sauerkraut – so much for good luck.

After years in the restaurant and hotel business, the very last day I want to be out is New Years Eve. It’s even worse than Mother’s Day. I don’t know if you can even imagine the horror of delivering pizzas on such a night, or dealing with drunks throwing glasses in the general vicinity of a casino fireplace. We were still finding shards of glass for weeks after that one…

Other than a few small house parties, First Night in Boston was probably the most fun of the New Year festivities I’ve experienced. Definitely the most unique. Outdoors in a cold, snowy Boston with performances ranging from classical to contemporary in a score or more different venues. And the crowds were relatively well-behaved.

We had bullets raining down on us when we lived in San Leandro – why people think it’s a good idea to shoot guns into the air boggles my mind. We flew across the country on New Year’s Eve 1999 to bring in the year 2000 with Victor’s family – on a near-empty flight in deserted airports. And being locked out of Times Square after seeing The Producers with Nathan Lane and Matthew Broderick less than a half-block away was pretty aggravating. We ended up heading back to our hotel and had a champagne toast with the bartender, the Beverage Manager, and a couple from Norway as the clock struck twelve.

Normally, I eschew crowds – especially the throngs out on a New Year’s Eve – but I do think I’d like to ring in the new year in a European city, Rome, London, Paris, Florence, Barcelona… I dunno… Outdoors in a huge plaza, somewhere – and within walking distance of wherever we were staying. The biggest stipulation being within walking distance of where we would be staying. I wouldn’t want to have to deal with any sort of transportation. And I could definitely envision a moonlit walk through Paris at 3am

It's nice to dream...

But what I didn't have to dream about was last night's dinner... Victor made a egg yolk-stuffed ravioli that was simply out of this world.

Stuffed Ravioli

It was one of those meals that simply could not be improved on. It was perfection on a plate.

The pasta dough is based on a recipe from Alon ShayaThe filling is pure Victor!

Pasta Dough

  • 1 1/4 cup 00 flour
  • 1/2 cup semolina
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2 tsp olive oil

Mix flours. make a well and add the eggs, egg yolks, and oil. Slowly mix in the flour and knead until smooth. Let rest 30 minutes before rolling to desired shape.

Ricotta Filling

  • 2 cups ricotta
  • 1 egg
  • 1/2 cup shredded Italian cheese blend
  • 1/2 cup grated parmigiano reggiano
  • 1 tsp fresh oregano
  • pinch garlic powder
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 egg yolk per ravioli

Mix all ingredients – except final egg yolk – together. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To assemble:

Stuffed Ravioli

Roll dough through pasta roller or roll out by hand. Cut into rounds - one slightly larger for the top.

Stuffed Ravioli

Place a scoop of cheese mixture on top and make an indentation for the egg yolk.

Then add the egg yolk...

Stuffed Ravioli

... and top with a pinch of shredded cheese.

Stuffed Ravioli

Moisten edges and place second round of dough on top, gently pushing out the air and sealing well.

Stuffed Ravioli

Cook in lightly boiling water about 4 minutes, give or take.

Stuffed Ravioli

Serve with your favorite sauce...

Stuffed Ravioli

And then cut into it and watch that lovely yolk run out...

Stuffed Ravioli

It's even better if you have a loaf of fresh-baked bread to sop everything up.

Pane Pugliese

This is a loaf Pane Pugliese - one of my favorite breads to bake. Pane Pugliese is a rustic bread from Puglia – in Italy’s heel – and  comes from The Italian Baker by Carol Field.

This bread requires a starter – biga – that needs to be made the day before you want to bake the loaf.

Pane Pugliese

Biga

  • 1/2 tsp active dry yeast (or 1/10 package fresh yeast)
  • 1/4 cup warm water
  • 1 1/4 cup water (room temperature)
  • 3 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Stir the yeast into the warm water and let stand until creamy – about 10 minutes.  Stir in the remaining water and then the flour, one cup at a time.

Mix with the paddle attachment on the mixer at the lowest speed about 2 minutes.

Remove to a slightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise at cool room temperature for 6 to 24 hours.  The starter will triple in volume and still be wet and sticky when ready.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Pane Pugliese

  • 1 packet dry yeast
  • 1/4 cup warm water
  • 3 cups water; room temp
  • 1 cup biga
  • 7 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tbsp salt

Proof the yeast in the warm water. Add 1 1/2 c water and the biga, mix till blended. Add flour and salt, mix till dough comes together and pulls off the sides of the bowl. Knead 3-5 minutes in a mixer, longer by hand. Dough will be very soft and elastic. Let rise about 3 hours, shape into 2 small round loaves or 1 big flattish one. If you have baking stones, place loaves on baking peel or on baking sheets sprinkled corn meal. Let rise about 1 hour. Preheat oven to 450°, and 10 minutes before baking flour the loaf tops and dimple them with your fingers. Bake 50-60 minutes for big loaves, 30-35 minutes for small. Tap the loaves to test for doneness (hollow=done) and cool on a rack.

The perfect bread for the perfect pasta and a perfect end to the year.

 

 


Eggplant and Eggs

Eggplant, Ravioli, and a Seven Minute Egg

I always know when Victor asks if I have planned anything for dinner that he has a plan for dinner. And I ain't no fool - I let him go for it!

His plan, tonight, was based on a soft-cooked egg he had seen on Milk Street - steamed for exactly 7 minutes.

Dinner based upon a simple egg?!? You betcha!

Of course, one needs something to put that egg upon - and he did not disappoint!

First, he made ravioli. Perfect little pillows stuffed with ricotta, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, egg, and parmigiano.

Our eggplant did not produce as it has in past years, but we were able to make some cutlets and freeze them. A couple of them came out and went into the oven with his sauce and the same ricotta filling in between them.

When they were ready, the ravioli went into the sauce and the eggs went into the steamer basket. And then everything went onto the plate.

Eggplant and Eggs

Absolute perfection!

It was one of those texture sensations - the silkiness of the ravioli, the crunch of the eggplant breading, and that perfectly cooked egg.

It was heaven on the end of my fork.

 

 


Italian Sausage

Homemade Italian Sausage

We're back from California after a whirlwind visit. The occasion was my nephew's wedding.

I hafta tell ya - my family does great weddings! Loud and boisterous while still reasonably civilized. We had a blast. The wedding was in Capay, California - about an hour and a half northeast of San Francisco. The venue and the weather were picture perfect and it was great spending time with the family. Even more fun was walking into a restaurant the following morning with 35 people for breakfast. Needless to say, we tipped well!

But all good things do come to an end, and we're back...

First thing we did was hit the garden - five days of not picking tomatoes meant we had a lot to deal with.

Tomatoes

Victor made more sun-dried and I made more paste. And then we made Italian Sausage.

Italian Sausage

A nice, spicy Italian Sausage!

3 pounds of pork gave us 12 4oz sausages. 10 went into the freezer and two were saved for dinner. Perfect.

As per usual, the recipe is a bit vague.

  • pork butt, ground
  • salt
  • pepper
  • fennel seed
  • fennel pollen
  • garlic powder
  • onion powder
  • brown sugar
  • aleppo pepper
  • cayenne pepper
  • crushed red pepper
  • oregano
  • thyme
  • red wine
  • paprika

Grind pork, mix in spices, regrind, stuff into casings... It really is up to you to add how much of something you like. Ya want spicy - add a lot of the hot spices. You want it sweet - leave them out. You could get by with just fennel, salt, and pepper...

And then we got to eat it!

First, I caramelized a couple of onions. Then I grilled the sausages. I cooked the orecchiette, drained it, and added some tomato paste - the awesome homemade stuff - and 2 chopped tomatoes from the garden. Then went a pinch of S&P and a bit of oregano.

It went onto the plate, a sausage on top of it, and the onions on top of it all. Some freshly grated pecorino romano topped it off.

Italian Sausage

It was a great combination of flavors.

 

 

 


Gnocchi alla Romana

Gnocchi alla Romana

I receive a daily email from La Cucina Italiana - in Italian. There are usually one or two ideas that look promising - and I do have to admit that Google Translate can really be a hoot when it comes to translating food ingredients and cooking terms.

This morning, Victor said he was going to make some sweet potato gnocchi just to have. He wanted to make a small gnocchi salad and then freeze the rest for dinner some day. It's great to have homemade items in the freezer for those brain-dead what-should-we-have-for-dinner days...

While he went off to make gnocchi, I opened the La Cucina email - all about gnocchi!

I scrolled through quite a few recipes and landed on one called Gnocchi alla Romana - something I had never heard of before. After a quick look at the pictures and ingredients, I knew it was dinner, tonight! I had already planned shrimp, and the gnocchi looked like the perfect accompaniment.

Gnocchi alla Romana

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 L milk
  • 250 g semolina
  • 120 g butter
  • 80 g grated parmesan
  • 2 egg yolks
  • nutmeg
  • salt

PREPARATION

1. Bring the milk to a boil with half a liter of water, 20 g of butter and a pinch of salt. At the boil, pour in the semolina, stirring first with a whisk and then, as soon as it begins to thicken, with a spoon. Cook the obtained polenta for about 15'.

2. Turn off the heat and season with a sprinkling of nutmeg, a tablespoon of parmesan cheese and the egg yolks.

3. Pour the polenta onto a tray soaked with water and level it, smoothing it with a spatula, to a thickness of 1.5-2 cm and let it cool completely.

Gnocchi alla Romana

4. Cut the gnocchi into the polenta layer with a round pastry cutter or with a small glass (ø 5 cm).

Gnocchi alla Romana

5. Melt 80 g of butter in a small pan; butter the baking dish with another piece of butter (or portion dishes) and arrange the gnocchi in layers. Sprinkle with plenty of grated parmesan and sprinkle with melted butter. Finally, put them in the oven at 200 ° C until they are grilled on the surface.
Gnocchi alla Romana

The sauce was an on-the-fly creation. I went for something a bit bold against the rich creaminess of the gnocchi - olives and roasted red peppers.

Shrimp Sauce

  • shrimp
  • white wine
  • leeks
  • garlic
  • roasted red peppers
  • crushed red pepper
  • olive tapenade

Saute leeks until slightly wilted. Stir in garlic. Add white wine and simmer a bit until leeks are tender. Add chopped roasted red peppers, crushed red peppers, to taste, and tapenade. Stir in shrimp and simmer until cooked through.

Check for seasoning and add salt & pepper, as desired.

This is one of those things that almost defies description. It's called a gnocchi, referred to as polenta in the recipe, and tastes like creamy heaven. The gnocchi literally melt in your mouth, covering your tongue with an almost custard-like sensation. Perfection on a plate.

We knew it was a winner because we ate in almost complete silence - except for the ooh's and ahh's that would occasionally escape our lips between bites. We were much too busy eating to talk.

The recipe made a lot, and we have another two meals in the freezer.

This is fun!

Gnocchi alla Romana

 

 


Bucatini

Bucatini

It has been raining pretty much non-stop since the wee hours of the morning. It's also been really windy - not a good combination, around here. And I'm pretty sure it put a damper on a lot of Mother's Day festivities.

Today is second only to New Year's Eve for days I absolutely hated working - and it is such a pleasure to be retired and not have to deal with that insanity, anymore. Instead, we cooked a simple pasta dish and watched the rain water the three shrubs we planted yesterday to shield us from our new neighbor.

Sadly, the new folks had a company come out and completely strip every bit of plant material out of their yard and replace it with grass. There were beautiful fire bushes along the fence that were perfect for both sound-break and privacy. Gone. Brick flower beds. Gone. We can now sit out in our yard and look right through their kitchen and into their living room. We kept thinking that they'd put something up to replace it all, but... their guys were back out this week and planted grass right up to the fence.

We headed off to the garden center...

Hopefully, the new plants will enjoy all of the water they're getting and grow big and tall - quickly.

The rest of the garden is enjoying it, as well. The vegetables are all looking good - and hopefully by next week we'll be planting our San Marzano tomatoes and a bunch of other stuff we started from seeds. We're still a couple months away from planting the last of the peppers - seeds my sister-in-law, Debbie, sent us from New Mexico. They're going to be a great addition to all the other hot peppers out there. I am really looking forward to making hot sauces in the fall!

I picked up some jalapeño peppers at the store the other day that were so mild, I can't even believe they were called jalapeño. I chopped them up and put them in tonight's sauce - no heat, whatsoever.

The sauce really didn't need heat - but I usually like a bit of a kick with my spaghetti - or bucatini as the case may be. A noodle by any other name...

We had an open jar of Victor's sauce in the 'fridge, so I used it to braise a couple of chicken thighs and made a really nice sauce. I chopped the bland jalapeños, a bell pepper, a bit of garlic, and an onion... browned them off, added the chicken thighs and browned them off, as well.

Next went some red wine and, finally, the pasta sauce. I put a lid on it and placed it in a 325°F oven for 2 hours. The end result was fall-off-the-bone chicken and a deep, rich sauce.

I'm still weighing our pasta - I probably always will - and made just enough for two. Nonna won't eat noodles or pasta sauce with things in it, so she got farfalle and the undoctored sauce. Whatever works, right?!?

In the meantime, we're getting a break in the rain for a few hours and then more rain all day tomorrow. We may see some sun by Wednesday...

Bucatini

 


Asparagus Risotto

Asparagus Risotto

For more years than I care to remember, risotto has just been something I make. There is no recipe - it just is. It's one of those dishes that is more technique than anything else - and once you know the technique... well... it's pretty quick and easy to do.

That being said, we were watching an episode of Moveable Feast - the cooking show attached to Fine Cooking Magazine - and saw the Costardi Brothers - Christian and Manuel - create a tomato risotto at their restaurant near Milano that looked stunning. While it appeared fairly basic, I wanted to see exactly what they had done. No matter how much I try, the recipe is elusive. I cannot find it, online.

I am reasonably certain I can make a pretty good interpretation based on what I saw on TV, but what Victor found in his searching was a recipe for their Asparagus Risotto. And we just happened to have a bunch of asparagus in the 'fridge and a brand new box of carnaroli rice.

Carnaroli rice is one of the three main risotto rices of Italy - and the most preferred in Italy. It is regularly hailed as the king or the caviar of Italian rices. It's also the most forgiving in cooking. I can buy it locally for the same price as the better-known and more readily-available arborio, so I go for the gusto.

The dish came out as one of the top risottos we have ever cooked. Really! The flavors were pure - no onion and garlic. No wine. No extraneous herbs or seasonings. Just the pure flavor of the asparagus and rice, complimented by the various toppings. Each one added its own bit of flavor - a burst of lemon, a bit of olivey salt, a crunch of pine nut, the sweetness of the tomato.

It really was perfection on a plate - and I learned a new technique - toasting the rice in a dry skillet. And by not using a lot of extraneous herbs, spices, and ingredients, it allowed for the main base flavor to shine.

Asparagus Risotto

by Costardi Brothers

Asparagus

  • 1 bunch of asparagus, cut into pieces
  • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

Tomato Confit

  • 1 tomato
  • 1 tbsp of dark muscavado sugar
  • flaky sea salt
  • extra virgin olive oil

Risotto

  • 320g of carnaroli risotto rice
  • 1 qt of vegetable stock, hot
  • 4 asparagus spears, each sliced into 4
  • 50g of butter
  • 50g of Parmesan, grated
  • salt
  • pepper

Garnish

  • asparagus tips
  • 10g of pine nuts
  • 4 black olives, chopped
  • zest of 1 lemon

Method

1. Place the asparagus in a small saucepan and just cover with water. Add the bicarbonate of soda and cook for 5–6 minutes, until tender. Drain, reserving the cooking water

2. Blitz with a hand-blender until you obtain a smooth cream, adding some of the cooking water if necessary

3. Preheat the oven to 140°C/285°F

4. Cut a small cross on the bottom of the tomato and blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds. Cool immediately in iced water

5. Remove the skin, quarter, and put on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. Sprinkle with sugar, salt and a drizzle of oil. Bake for 30 minutes

6. To cook the risotto, add the rice and toast it for a couple of minutes. Season with salt and pepper and gradually add the vegetable stock

7. When half cooked, add the asparagus cream and finish cooking

8. Add the the butter and Parmesan. Stir until creamy

9. To serve, place the rice on a plate and add the confit tomato, asparagus, pine nuts and chopped olives. Grate over some lemon zest and enjoy

The goal, now, is to make the tomato risotto and see if it can compare.

I have a sneaking feeling it's going to!

 

 


Eggs poached in tomato sauce

Eggs Poached in Tomato Sauce

We caught a Lidia Bastianich program on PBS last night that had a recipe we knew we were making immediately - eggs poached in a marinara sauce served on toast. I mean... how perfect could something possibly be?!?

The premise is simply to heat the sauce in a shallow pan, crack the eggs in, cover, and simmer for a few minutes until the eggs are cooked to your liking. Serve on toast.

She made a quick fresh tomato sauce - we had some in the freezer. Even easier.

To make it a complete dinner, I added some grilled sausages.

Our CharBroil Grill has seen better days, so last week I ordered new heat spreaders, new grill racks, and a new warming rack to hopefully get us through another season. They arrived today via FedEx - with a damaged box and one of the three grill grates missing.

I went to the CharBroil website and sent off an email. In less than 20 minutes, I had a phone call from CharBroil and a replacement grate was on its way. Twenty minutes! I was dumbfounded. The woman I spoke with - Elizabeth - was on top of it, immediately. No hoops to jump through, no questioning my motives... Just honest quality customer service. I really was impressed.

Needless to say, when it does become time to get a new grill, CharBroil will be the brand!

So...

Eggs poached in tomato sauce

Perfectly-grilled sausages and perfectly-runny eggs poached in marinara sauce and served on toast and a wonderful customer service experience.

In spite of the fact that it's been raining all day, I'd say today has been a success!

 

 

 


Shrimp Ravioli

Shrimp Ravioli with Limoncello Sauce

Homemade shrimp ravioli with a sun-dried tomato pasta, topped with a limoncello sauce. If dinner, tonight, was a reality TV show - I won with a unanimous decision.

I don't often swoon when eating something, but this was totally swoon-worthy. I didn't want my plate to ever empty. Chunks of shrimp inside perfect pasta pockets topped with butter and limoncello and mascarpone. Everything about it screamed delicious.

The filling could go into anything, from a cannelloni or manicotti to a stuffing for fish and the pasta dough could be spinach, plain, or even lemon-infused. And the sauce... the limoncello was perfect, but a red sauce would work, as well. It's one of those dishes where each individual part was perfect - and any one of them could be used with something else and still be perfect.

The perfect meal.

 

Shrimp Ravioli with Limoncello Sauce

Pasta Dough

  • 1/4 (generous) cup finely minced sun-dried tomatoes in oil
  • Fine sea salt
  • 2 cups flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks

Shrimp Filling

  • 1 lb of medium shrimp cut into small chunks
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 3 scallions, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp lemon juice + grated peel of one lemon
  • 1/4 cup ricotta
  • 2 heaping tablespoons mascarpone
  • 1/3 cup grated parmesan
  • 2 teaspoons, chopped parsley
  • Salt/Pepper to taste

Limoncello Sauce

  • 4 tbsp limoncello
  • 3 tbsp lemon juice
  • 3 tbsp. butter
  • 3 tbsp. mascarpone

For pasta dough:

On a clean work surface, mound 2 cups flour and form a well in the center.

Add 2 eggs, 2 egg yolks, and sun-dried tomatoes into the well. Using a fork (or your fingers) gently break up yolk and slowly incorporate flour . Continue until the liquid is absorbed, then knead for 10 minutes.

Wrap dough tightly in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.

After the dough has rested:

Take the dough and divide into 3 equal pieces (cover the other two and set aside)

Set the rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times folding and turning pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.

Roll dough through the machine, decreasing the setting one notch at a time (do not fold or turn the dough this time) until pasta sheet is a scant 1/16 inch thick.

For the filling:

Quickly sauté garlic and onion. Add seafood and parsley, toss til coated, then let it cool.

Add the ricotta, parmesan, and mascarpone. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Cut dough into 3" squares and place a heaping teaspoon of filling on top. Brush top with egg wash.

Shrimp Ravioli

Fold into a triangle and crimp edge with a fork. Place them onto a sheet pan lightly dusted with flour.

Shrimp Ravioli

Cook in lightly boiling water about 3-5 minutes.

For the sauce:

Simmer the limoncello with the lemon juice. Stir in butter to melt, then add the mascarpone. Add a bit of salt & pepper, if desired.

Shrimp Ravioli

You do not want or need a lot of sauce - it is buttery-rich. It's also not designed to be a smooth cream sauce - it's a flavored butter sauce - so less is more.

What I really wanted was more. And more.

It really was a perfect meal.


Eggplant Parmigiana

Eggplant Parmigiana

I'm almost getting to see the back of the freezer! Almost. This time around, it has been fuller for longer. Somehow, we did a really good job of filling it up since Summer.

Tonight, I used the last of the eggplant from the garden that we breaded, fried, and froze, and I pulled out the last of the fried hot peppers. Fortunately, we still have a couple of jars that I canned, but the fried peppers are my favorite. We just use them for everything. I also pulled out the last of the sausage. I really need to get down to Martin's at Reading Terminal Market - soon.

It's difficult to think of gardens right now, since it's snowing like a bat outta hell. The prediction is 5"-8". It's that nice heavy, wet snow that tends to bring down trees and power lines. My only concern is losing power. Personally, I could not care less - I can always build a fire and put on a sweater - but when there's a 93 year old in the house, heat takes on a whole new meaning. Fingers crossed.

Our out-of-the-freezer dinner tonight was breaded eggplant slices heated in the oven, topped with Mancini's sweet peppers and onions, and quattro formaggio - an Italian four-cheese blend - along with Victor's pasta sauce and spicy Italian sausage.

About as simple as simple can be. I dirtied one small pot and a sheet pan. Clean-up was a breeze.

With the big unknown about snow amounts, we switched our Monday morning gym workout to Tuesday morning. That means we have nothing to do but sit back and watch the snow fall.

I've made a biga - an Italian bread starter - and will bake bread tomorrow while watching the snow melt.

Retirement really rocks.


Spaghetti

Giorno di San Valentino Parte Due

For the non-Italian speakers out there, that would be Valentine's Day Part two. Part Two, because, while we've been in and out of the kitchen most of the day, this is dinner!

Victor saw this recipe the other day and asked if I wanted to go out to dinner, tonight, of have him cook. While I really do like going out once in a while, I'd much rather eat at home on nights everyone else wants to go out. Besides... He's a really good cook.

And really good cook came up with a killer dinner! This really did rock the casbah. Everything about it worked - from the saltiness of the olives and anchovies to the sweetness of the onions and the little kick from the lemon and spice from the red pepper flakes.

I could go on and on, but instead, I'll just say Highly Recommended.

And Happy Valentine's Day!

Spicy Spaghetti

adapted from NY Times

  • Kosher salt, as needed
  • olive oil
  • 2 large onions, halved and very thinly sliced
  • 12 ounces spaghetti
  • 6 garlic cloves
  • ½ teaspoon chile paste or red-pepper flakes, or to taste
  • 2 anchovies, chopped
  • 1 cup chopped mix of parsley and basil (or use all parsley)
  • ⅓ cup chopped cured Moroccan or other intensely flavored black olives
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
  • Lemon wedges
  • Grated Parmesan, for serving (optional)

PREPARATION

Put a large pot of salted water on to boil.

Cook the onions: Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and pale golden - about 20 minutes.

Cook spaghetti according to package directions until just al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta water; drain pasta.

Thinly slice 4 garlic cloves, and stir into golden onions, along with red-pepper flakes. Continue to cook until onions are a rich brown, about 10 minutes longer.

Finely grate remaining garlic cloves, and mash into anchovies.

Move some of the onion mixture to the side of the pan and add anchovy paste to bare spot in the skillet. Cook paste for 1 minute, then add herbs and olives, stir everything together, and cook another 1 minute.

Stir in cooked pasta, butter, and salt to taste, tossing to coat pasta. Add pasta water if it looks dry.

Serve with a generous squeeze of lemon, and sprinkle with Parmesan and more chile on top.

And just because... here's that crusty baguette. It really was good - crusty crunch and perfectly-chewy interior.

Baguette


Victor's Pasta Sauce

Valentine's Day

On our first Valentine's Day, I think I got Victor something like 20 pounds of chocolates - and he pretty much did the same to me. See's Tuxedo Hearts, little stuffed animals... roses for days... all became the norm. We've done goofy, we've done silly, we've sent flowers to our places of work... Romantic dinners... We have run the gamut.

After 25 years of celebrating Valentine's Day together, spending it in the kitchen with each other is a lot more fun than boxes of candy or anything else.

The day started out with Victor making a batch of pasta sauce. We were down to one jar - the last one made from our summer tomatoes - and we both start getting nervous when there's no sauce in the house. I picked up a case of San Marzano tomatoes and he went to town. This is something we now have down to a science. He makes the sauce and I can it. Putting up 14 or more quarts of sauce can either be a chore or it can be fun. We make labels and make it fun.

Here's the scaled-down version - we generally do this times six.

Victor's Pasta Sauce

  • 2 – 28oz cans of crushed tomatoes
  • 1 – Sm can tomato paste
  • 1-2 cloves of garlic (or to taste if you like more) chopped fine
  • Olive oil
  • Dried Italian seasonings
  • freshly-dried Oregano
  • Hot red pepper flakes (a tsp or more or less to taste)
  • Salt and Pepper to taste
  • Red wine (always cook with a decent wine, never “cooking” wine) about a cup or cup and a half
  • Meat – such as Italian sausage or some nice beef or pork ribs or pork chops

Ok…I ALWAYS make my sauce with meat, so start with a deep, heavy pot and add about 3-4 TBS of olive oil. On high heat, once the oil is hot, start frying the sausage or pork, Let the meat get good and caramelized although you don’t have to cook it all the way through because you’ll add it back to the sauce to finish. Once the meat is browned take it out of the pot, put it on a plate and set aside.

Lower the heat to medium and sauté the tomato paste for a couple of minutes until it begins to “melt”. Add the chopped garlic and sauté with the tomato paste for just a minute (no longer or it will burn). Then add about a cup of the red wine and deglaze the pan with it, scrapping up all the good bits that stuck to the bottom when cooking the meat.

When the wine reduces by about ½ start adding the canned tomatoes.  Add one can of hot water for every can of tomatoes you use.

Now start adding the dried Italian seasonings.  I eyeball it but I would guess a good 2 TBS is fine.  Add about another ½ cup of red wine, with red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Stir everything into the sauce. It will be very thin at this point.

Add back the cooked meat. Now this is important….at the bottom of the plate you let the meat rest on will be some of the oil and juices that seeped out. Pour that back into the pot. It has a lot of flavor in it.

Bring the sauce back to a boil then turn the heat down low and let it simmer for at least 1 and a half hours, stirring every 15 to 20 minutes to keep it from burning. It should reduce by about a third or a little less and get thicker. The meat will absorb the sauce and get very tender.

When I make meatballs, I don’t fry them, I bake them on a sheet pan. When I do, I add them to the simmering sauce when they’re done so they also absorb the flavor.

I usually make the sauce early in the day and after it’s done, just let it sit on the stove until dinner then I re-heat it. This should make enough sauce for a couple of dinners or good sized lasagna.

While the sauce was simmering, I made bread. We need crusty bread for the pasta dish Victor is making for us, tonight. We're not having his sauce - but we will tomorrow night. Tonight he's making a Spicy Spaghetti with Caramelized Onions... More on the in the next post.

Baguettes

I definitely wanted something crusty, so I looked into the files and found this one originally from Martha Stewart. It takes a while to put together but it is easy.

The starter needs to stand for 12 to 15 hours, so plan accordingly!

Crusty Baguettes or Rolls

adapted from Martha Stewart Living

Starter

  • 11 ounces all-purpose flour (2 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon), plus more for dusting
  • Pinch of active dry yeast
  • 5 1/2 ounces cool water (75 degrees to 78 degrees; 2/3 cup)

For the Dough

  • 11 ounces all-purpose flour (2 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon)
  • 1 3/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
  • 6 ounces cool water (75 to 78 degrees; 3/4 cup)
  • 1 3/4 teaspoons fine sea salt

Directions

1. Make the starter: Stir together flour, yeast, and water with a rubber spatula in a medium bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand at cool room temperature until it has risen slightly and bubbles cover entire surface, 12 to 15 hours.

2. Make the dough: Whisk together flour and yeast in a large bowl. Add water and starter, and stir with spatula until mixture comes together in a slightly sticky, loosely formed ball of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes.

3. Gently turn dough onto an unfloured work surface. Sprinkle with salt.

4. To knead: Gather dough, lifting it above work surface. Hold one end of dough close to you while you cast the other end in front of you, onto the surface. Pull the end of dough in your hands toward you, stretching it gently, then fold the dough in half on top of itself. Repeat. Lift, cast, stretch, and fold. Knead the dough until it is smooth, supple, and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes. Use a dough scraper to clean the surface as needed, adding the scraps to the dough. (Dough will be very sticky, but avoid adding more flour until the end, when it may be necessary to add a very small amount. Add the flour to your fingers, not the dough.) Form into a ball.

5. Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with oiled plastic wrap. Let rise at cool room temperature for 45 minutes.

6. Gently turn dough onto a lightly floured surface. (Do not punch down.) Fold into thirds, as you would a business letter. Then fold it in half crosswise. Return to bowl, cover, and let rise at cool room temperature until it has almost doubled, at least 75 minutes.

7. Gently turn dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using a dough scraper or a knife, divide dough into equal portions (3 if making baguettes, 2 if making boules or rolls). Cover with oiled plastic wrap, and let rest for 20 minutes.

8. On a lightly floured surface, spread each portion of dough into a rectangle that’s roughly 10 by 6 inches. Fold dough into thirds again, as you would a business letter, pressing seams with your fingers. Shape portions into baguettes, rolls, or boules.

To Make French Rolls

1. Working with 1 portion of dough at a time, keeping remaining dough covered, fold dough in half lengthwise to form a tight, narrow log. Gently press edges with lightly floured fingertips to seal. Using a dough scraper or a knife, cut into 8 pieces.

2. Gather edges, and gently pull and tuck them underneath the dough to create a round shape, pinching to seal.

3. Place dough on the work surface. Cup one hand around dough, and rotate it in circles until a smooth, taut ball forms.

4. Place rolls on a generously floured linen towel or a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover loosely with oiled plastic wrap, and let rise at cool room temperature until rolls have almost doubled and a floured finger pressed into side leaves a slight indentation, 30 to 40 minutes.

5. Place a skillet on oven rack adjusted to lowest position and a baking stone on middle oven rack. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. If using a linen towel, gently transfer rolls to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Just before baking, use a lame or a razor blade to slash the surface of each roll, forming an X. Pour 1/2 cup hot water into skillet in oven. Slide rolls and parchment onto baking stone.

6. Immediately reduce oven to 450 degrees. Bake until rolls are deep golden brown, sound hollow when bottoms are thumped, and interiors register 205 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool on racks.

In the grand scheme of things, I can't think of a better or more fun way to spend Valentine's - or any day for that matter.

Talk about livin' the dream...

 

 


Gnocchi

Gnocchi

I casually mentioned to Victor, this morning, that it would be great if he made butternut squash gnocchi for dinner tonight. I had bought a rather large butternut squash and used half of it for dinner on Thursday and had put the rest in the 'fridge. He casually mentioned back that he had already used the leftover squash in the soup we were having for lunch.

But, he said, he's be happy to make gnocchi. Works for me!

He made a ricotta gnocchi - flour, ricotta, pecorino cheese, egg, salt, and pepper - and a sauce of tomatoes we canned last summer and hot Italian sausage. One of those meals that is simple, yet screams flavor from the rooftops. The sauce had just enough heat to be interesting, and the gnocchi were light as a feather. Melt-in-your-mouth pillows of flavor.

He also mad up a little antipasti of roasted hot and sweet peppers, olives, and cheese - they paired nicely with the pasta.

antipasto

A couple of slices of homemade bread I had pulled from the freezer, and dinner was served - an exquisite dinner, I might add.

We really do eat well around here. In fact, he asked me earlier today if I wanted to go out for dinner on Valentine's Day or have him cook. That was like the biggest DUH in the world - have him cook, of course!!!

He's going to do a spaghetti with caramelized onions. I'm going to make a loaf of crusty bread.

Did I mention we eat well around here?!?