Manicotti

It's Nonna's Birthday. There's not a lot you can get a 91 year old for her birthday. It's not like she's wearing out things at this stage of her life - and there's really not a lot of things she needs. So how do you celebrate a birthday? With a special dinner!

The criterion for a Nonna Dinner is pretty simple - Italian and soft. I figured homemade manicotti would met both - and it did.

I made everything last night so all I had to do was sauce it and get it into the oven when I got home.

I followed Lidia's recipe for crespelle - the manicotti wrappers.

Manicotti

Crespelle:

  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 to 1 1/4 cup water
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour

Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Crack the eggs over the flour and whisk them in. Add salt and whisk in water until smooth.

Heat your pan until hot and brush with melted butter.

Pour 1/4 cup batter into the pan and swirl to completely coat. Cook until pale golden and crespelle is dry on top.

Place on plate and continue until all the batter has been used.

The filling I just winged...

  • 1 16 oz carton whole-milk ricotta cheese
  • 2 large eggs
  • 8 oz cubed mozzarella
  • 1 cup Pepato cheese, shredded
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
  • S&P

Mix all ingredients together.

Place crespelle on counter, place about 1/2 cup filling. Roll and place seam-side down in baking dish.

Cover with a simple marinara sauce, cover dish, and bake about 30 minutes at 375°F. Uncover, top with additional cheese, and bake an additional 15 or so minutes.

Nonna loved it. She ate every bite and almost licked her plate.

They really did come out good - I was a bit nervous because the crespelle seemed thicker than the last time I made them, but they absorbed the sauce and were hearty without being heavy. Definitely good.

Victor made cheesy garlic bread to go along with it and Nonna immediately had a piece of Lemon Coconut Cake.

It was a good birthday!

 


Friday Frittata

Victor is practicing for retirement. It's three weeks away. We're both psyched - although he's a tad more psyched than me. I have 14 months to go.

One of his retirement plans is to spend more time in the kitchen. I've always done more of the cooking because my schedule allowed it.

Because I do more cooking - and write the blog - I tend to get all the accolades and glory, but Victor is a fantastic cook - and baker. He's intuitive - he just knows what to do. He's definitely a better pasta-maker than I'll ever be, and it's his sauce I can every couple of months - not mine. I love walking in the door and seeing a new cake or dessert on the table, or a tray of focaccia - or just something simmering on the stove.

Tonight is a perfect example. A fritatta was in the making as I walked in. Simplicity at its finest - a couple of links of sausage, some oven-roasted potatoes, a few strips of bacon, onion, cheese, tomato slices - and eggs. Some herbs thrown in along with some salt and pepper. Dinner is served.

We're both enjoying the simplicity of foods, again. We've gone through periods of vastly-complex recipes building layer-upon-layer of flavors and textures - and still enjoy them - but the older we get, the more we are embracing a few good ingredients and letting them speak for themselves.

And this was one of them.

Enough for dinner and plenty for lunch tomorrow, as well. Even Nonna cleaned her plate.

Yes. I am really looking forward to retirement.


Mafaldine and Semelle

We just had a quiet dinner at home. Nonna is off with her eldest son, so it was time to break out the long noodles and bake some bread.

Nonna's no longer a fan of noodles - spaghetti, linguine, pappardelle - so we don't have them as often as we used to. Tonight, we broke out the last of the meter-long mafaldine and baked little rolls from Florence. We're such rebels.

Victor made a sauce by blending a jar of his homemade sauce with a jar of the eggplant I canned last summer. He mixed in some freshly grated cheese and we had total perfection. Simply topped with fresh basil and more freshly-grated cheese. We served it on the dishes we bought in Florence and it was the perfect touch. It's amazing how things really can taste differently based on what they're served on. It's one of the reasons we have so many different styles of plates - and never use paper no matter how large the crowd. If you're going to take the time to make it - serve it right!

The rolls were a take on a recipe from Carol Field's The Italian Baker. I bought this book 30 years ago and it's still my favorite bread book. I just found out that Carol Field died last month - she was only 76... She will definitely live on in our house.

I wanted to make rolls instead of a loaf of bread, and thought the Semele rolls would be fun. I had some biga in the 'fridge that needed using up - biga is an Italian starter - so I played with her recipe to incorporate it and still make 10 rolls. If you don't use a biga, increase the flour to about 3 1/2 cups. And use all-purpose instead of the Italian "00".

Semelle are little rolls from Florence. I went through the pictures we took of Florence and didn't see any in the places where we ate, but ... we didn't eat everywhere or go to every bakery. The rolls are really good!

Semelle

Adapted from The Italian Baker by Carol Field

  • 2 1/4 tsp (1 packet) active 
dry yeast
  • 1 1/4 cups warm water
  • 2 cups "00" flour
  • 1 cup biga
  • 2 tsp salt
  • Olive oil for brushing

Stir the yeast into the water and let stand until creamy. Add the flour and biga. Mix until the dough is solid and elastic - 6-8 minutes.

First Rise.

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Shaping and Second Rise.

Cut the dough into ten equal pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Brush a little oil over each and let rest 10 minutes under a towel.

With the edge of your hand, make a deep indentation down the center of each ball - be sure to press down firmly.

Place the rolls, cleft side down, on floured parchment paper. Cover with a towel and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Baking.

Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Just before baking, turn each roll over and reemphasize the cleft. Place the rolls - cleft side up - on a baking sheet dusted with corn meal.

Bake 15 to 18 minutes, spraying the rolls three times with water in the first 10 minutes.

The whole batch of dough weighed 30 ounces, so it was easy to make 10 rolls of 3 ounces each.

They had a great chewy crust and a really light interior. I think without the indentation, these would make a great hamburger bun.

These are super easy to make - I know I'll be making more...

 

 


Sunday in the Kitchen

We've been out of Victor's pasta sauce for a couple of weeks. Since the garden tomatoes haven't even been planted, yet, it was time to get the canned tomatoes in gear. We can't go long without pasta sauce in the house - and I'll be damned if I'll buy the stuff.

We have this one down to a science. 14 28-oz cans of San Marzano tomatoes - along with a bottle of wine, tomato paste, and some water - will yield 14 quarts of sauce - with enough left over for dinner.

We have a great system, too. Victor makes the sauce, I jar it. Neither of us has to do much work, this way. I did help with the opening of the cans, though. No electric can opener in this house. It's manual, baby! I think the only electric can opener we've ever had was an under cabinet opener in our house in San Leandro. I don't recall using it, much, but, we're not usually opening a lot of cans...

Victor's sauce is not vegetarian. He always cooks off some pork; ribs, chops, or whatever is around. I picked up a small pork loin for this batch.

It cooks up really nice and is shreddable when it's done. It's part of the dinner we have - it doesn't go into the jars.

After simmering nicely, it's time to fill the jars.

Sauce is hot, jars are hot, pressure canner is getting hot...

It takes 15 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure to get perfection.

Playing tag-team in the kitchen really does make this effortless. Most of the time is simmering or unattended pressure-cooking. We watched movies, I baked a loaf of bread, played a few games of Scrabble... It's nothing overwhelming. And the payoff is fantastic.

I cooked up a package of mafaldine since Nonna wasn't here - she doesn't like any sort of long pasta - and topped it with lots of freshly-grated piave I picked up at Downtown Cheese at Reading Terminal Market. Piave is a DOP Italian cheese produced in the Dolomites. Good stuff.

And since we were going to have fresh sauce with pasta on our plates from Florence, we needed a loaf of bread. I reworked a recipe from a while ago and made a really good cheese bread.

Crusty on the outside and really light on the inside.

The original recipe called for pecorino, but I used up the last of a few cheeses we had in the 'fridge.

Pecorino Cheese Bread

  • 1 pkg active dry yeast
  • 1 cup warm water
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • 3 1/2 cups flour
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 1/2 cups shredded pecorino cheese
  • 1 egg mixed with water
  • sesame seeds

Mix yeast with water to proof. In a stand mixer, add half the flour and the sour cream and begin to mix. Slowly add the grated cheese and the rest of the flour, mixing until it all holds together. Continue mixing for about 10 minutes or until a firm, smooth dough is made.

Form into a ball, rub a bowl with oil, coat dough, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rise until doubled.

 

Punch down, turn out to counter, and let rest about 15 minutes. Form into a loaf and place on a baking peel liberally coated with corn meal. Cover, and let rise until doubled.

 

Preheat oven with baking stone to 375ºF (190°C).

When dough has risen, brush with an egg mixed with water. Sprinkle liberally with sesame seeds and make two cuts into the loaf with a sharp knife.

Bake for 40-45 minutes or until nicely browned and hollow-sounding when tapped.

Cool on wire rack.

All in all, it was a relaxing day with lots accomplished. Not bad, at all.


Wild Boar Risotto

I've had about a half-pound of wild boar sausage in the freezer for a while, now, and decided it was time to bring it out.

We have a rule that I constantly break about using up things in the freezer. The main reason we don't have an extra freezer downstairs is because I would fill it up - and still shop for more stuff. It's just what I do. I see something that looks good or is on sale and a recipe starts formulating in my mind. Into the cart it goes. Having one freezer does keep me in line - a bit - but I really do need to be better at clearing it out before bringing home more goodies.

I had planned on making risotto with the Moliterno al Tartufo I picked up at Downtown Cheese last week but the kitchen gods conspired against me. I made it tonight.

Risotto really is one of the easiest dishes on the planet to make. It has a reputation for being difficult, but I think that's just so Italian restaurants can charge a lot of money for rice.

It's easy.

Risotto is also a wing-it dish at our house. We don't use a recipe - we just make it.

Because it's easy.

This is tonight's version.

Wild Boar Risotto

  • 1 cup arborio, carnaroli, vialone nano, or other risotto rice
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 18 oz wild boar sausage
  • 2 cups cauliflower, finely chopped (riced)
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 4 cups chicken broth
  • 1 cup grated Moliterno al Tartufo cheese
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsley
  • S&P, to taste

Chop onion and saute in a combination of butter and olive oil until wilted and starting to caramelize a bit. Add sausage, broken up and out of the casing. Add minced garlic. Saute until sausage is almost done.

Add 1 cup of rice and saute until the rice is translucent. Add 1 cup white wine and stir until most of it has been absorbed.

Heat the broth and add by half-cupfuls, stirring and waiting until it has been absorbed before adding the next. About halfway through, add the cauliflower.

Continue cooking and stirring, adding broth by half-cupfulls, until rice is fully cooked.

Stir in the cheese and the parsley. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper, as desired.

Nonna cleaned her plate - that's my barometer about how good a meal is.

Simplicity. Really.

And later on we have banana cake with a banana cream cheese frosting that Victor made while I was at work.

It looks really awesome!

More on that, later!!


Risotto with Lagostino

It's Monday after Thanksgiving. The holiday is officially over. More or less. The leftover turkey - about a quarter-breast - was vacuum-sealed and frozen, along with an equal amount of smoked turkey breast and the last of the gravy. It will come out in the winter as a pot pie, of sorts. Waste not, want not.

And, as the holiday is officially over, we needed something for dinner that had nothing to do with the flavors of fall. As I was checking cabinets before my weekly shopping trek, I saw a box of Carnaroli rice. Risotto, it is!

Risotto is the perfect clean-out-the-refrigerator dish - absolutely anything can go into it and it's always good. Since I'm in use-up mode, I pulled some lagostino out of the freezer, a leek and a small bulb of fennel from the 'fridge. and 2 bottles of clam juice from the cupboard.

Dinner was set.

We spent the weekend decorating - what used to take one long day now takes three - and a simple dinner was really just what we were looking for.

It's funny that 22 years ago we started early on Black Friday putting up the tree and decorating the entire house - inside, outside, floors, walls, ceiling, trees, bushes, plants - and just kept going until it was all done. Now it's, Meh.. There's always tomorrow. Is Jeopardy on, yet?!? Interesting how age and attitude dictates how things are done... The bulk of it still happens Friday, but we give ourselves the entire weekend to fine-tune everything.

And by Monday, it's time to rejoin the human race and start eating things that don't involve cranberry sauce.

The risotto really was simple - and really good.

Risotto with Lagostino

  • 1 cup arborio, carnaroli, or other risotto rice
  • 1 small leek
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1 small bulb fennel
  • 12 oz lagostino, thawed, if frozen
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 2 cups clam broth
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup grated cheese
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsley
  • S&P, to taste

Chop leek and fennel. saute in a combination of butter and olive oil until wilted and starting to caramelize a bit. Add minced garlic.

Add 1 cup of rice and saute until the rice is translucent. Add 1 cup white wine and stir until most of it has been absorbed.

Heat the clam juice and water and add by half-cupfuls, stirring and waiting until it has been absorbed before adding the next.

When rice is just about done, stir in the lagostino and cook until done.

Stir in the cheese and the parsley. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper, as desired.

This is pretty much my basic risotto - the ingredients change to whatever is around the house, but the proportions pretty much remain constant.

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Here's a preview of the outside...

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The Importance of a Well-Stocked Larder

I threw out dinner, tonight. It's something I haven't done in years, but it needed doing.

We cleaned out the last of the garden this morning. The stuff that was hanging on we looking pretty anemic. Lots of green tomatoes, but nothing ripening. The eggplants had just stopped doing anything but hanging there - same size as when we got back from vacation, and the peppers were gasping. It was time to say goodbye. We had a bumper crop of produce and learned a lot about what, where, and when to plant things. I already have seeds for next year from the Seed Savers Exchange and will draw out a plan before we plant anything. A little planning and organization will go a long way.

But I digress...

We brought in probably 20 pounds of green tomatoes and maybe 3 more pounds of peppers to add to the 3 pounds already picked. My thought was to can a bunch of chow chow or green tomato relish, but I thought I could simmer up some with some pork and some other veggies and mix in some fava beans I had soaked over night. Perfect time for a nice fall stew of sorts.

I had a green tomato recipe where everything is ground together, so I thought I'd grind some stuff and cook it all off in the oven, shred the pork back into it... Pretty basic stuff. I browned the pork pieces, simmered them in some red wine, added broth, and ground up green tomatoes, carrots, celery, onion, garlic, mushrooms, and 1 hot pepper. After a while, I added the cooked fava beans. The smells of the cooking pork and the drying rosemary in the kitchen were wonderful. The house smelled great!

10-15-16-rosemary

I pulled it out to taste and almost died. The one little pepper was screaming hot - and the favas - the favas totally sucked!  They were absolutely horrible. Gawd-awful-inedible-horrible. I think I could have handled the heat on its own, but having it coupled with the disgusting favas was too much. I don't generally buy dried fava beans, but I saw these and thought they would just be perfect for fall and winter soups and stews. And I paid way too much money for them - or, at least, more than I should have for dried beans. And they sucked.

The entire pan went down the garbage disposal and I threw the second package of favas in the trash.

I nonchalantly mentioned to Victor that I had just tossed dinner and we'd be having pasta. With a dozen or so quarts of sauce downstairs and a half-dozen varieties of dried pasta at any given moment, pasta is always a possibility.

He laughed and said it must have really been bad for me to toss it. I can usually make do with just about anything. No big deal - ya win some ya lose some.

About 15 minutes later I'm in the office and new, wonderful smells start permeating the house. Victor decided to up the pasta with a little eggplant lasagne.

Be still my gastronomic heart!

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We had 4 or 5 eggplants that also needed using up, so away he went, layering fried eggplant with ricotta and sauce and cheese... Having the right ingredients in the kitchen is key. It was just stellar.

My philosophy in the kitchen is the worst thing that can happen is you throw it all out and call for pizza. It tends to put everything in perspective. Really. The worst thing that can happen is you toss it out and have something else.

From dinner to disaster to fabulous dinner, we did it all, today.

And there's a coconut cake for dessert... There's a story behind that, too...

 


Zantonio Bruschetta

I don't often write about things we didn't make ourselves, but every once in a while, someone else makes something that is just too good not to blab about. And tonight is one of those times.

The guys we had brunch with, yesterday, are old friends of Victor's from the Lickety Split and Montserrat days - the beginning of the young and hip restaurant renaissance in Philadelphia. One pal, Tony, started Zantonio Brands of Hammonton.

At brunch, Tony gifted us with a batch of his bruscetta sauce - it's bru-SKETTA.

Bruschetta to Italians is like salsa to Mexicans. You put it on everything. And, like salsa - some bruschettas are good, some are okay, some suck, and some are awesome. Tony's is awesome. And I'm not just saying that because it's true. It really is awesome.

The first thing I did when we got home was open the lid. I was immediately hit with the scent of tomatoes. Real tomatoes. And the flavor. It tasted like it had just been made with the best tomatoes right out of my yard. I've been around food long enough to know it ain't easy to make something in quantity and have it taste like it was just made in your own kitchen.

Tony did it. And without preservatives!

As I was standing at the counter eating spoonfuls out of the container, I thought that for my first dish I'd use it to top a chicken breast. It's pretty much a classic pairing, but something this good meant I had to up the chicken game, a bit.

08-15-16-zantonio-bruschetta-and chicken

I started off with organic, free range boneless, skinless chicken breasts because I love being pretentious now and again. If I could have found pastured chicken at the local grocery I would have gone with it - damn the cost!

I floured them, dipped them in egg, and then dipped them in a coating of fresh bread crumbs, shredded Locatelli, grated garlic, and a bit of freshly-ground pepper. I browned them in a skillet with olive oil, and then placed them on a rack in the oven to finish. It is so much easier -  and much less messy - to cook them this way.

Five minutes before pulling them out of the oven, I topped them with generous helpings of bruschetta and then a handful of lump crab meat because crab makes everything better. That, and crab, chicken, and tomato just really go well together.

For a side dish, I baked slices of potatoes in the oven on a sheet pan and then tossed them into a skillet with several different olives, pimento strips, and about a third of a cup of homemade tomato sauce. Just enough to coat everything.

Dinner was spectacular. Even Nonna completely cleaned her plate.

Tomorrow will probably be a classic bread and bruschetta since I baked bread today.

Locally, you can get Tony's bruschetta at Shop Rite and at Acme. It's refrigerated. He also makes a scampi sauce that I'm going to actually go out and buy!

Can't wait to try it!


Garden Bounty

We did a bit of tag-teaming in the kitchen, today.  We picked a bit of produce from the yard and had to think of ways to use it. I've had friends for years that have had CSA shares and have spoken about getting massive amounts of something in their boxes and being at a loss as to what to do.

We didn't exactly have massive amounts of anything - yet - but three eggplants is a lot for me.

07-25-16-produce

And there are more where those came from!

I have wanted to do a stuffed eggplant since the day we planted them, and tonight I got my wish. The other two became caponata.

07-25-16-caponata

5 pints went downstairs to join the if Trump gets elected we're screwed hoard. And one went into the 'fridge for snacking.

While I was stuffing eggplant and making caponata, Victor was making a baked pasta using the crookneck squash - another vegetable that is taking over out there. Thank goodness these are things we like!

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The recipes all come from Lidia.

Baked Zucchini and Shells

Ingredients

  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • 1 pound crookneck squash, sliced
  • One 28-ounce can whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand
  • 1 cup fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped
  • 3/4 pound sheels
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 8 ounces shredded Fontina
  • 1 cup grated Grana Padano

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for pasta. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat.

2. Add the onion, and cook until it begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the squash, and cook until it begins to soften, another 5 minutes. Add the salt, then the crushed tomatoes with 1 cup water. Bring the sauce to a boil, and simmer just until it thickens, about 8 to 10 minutes, but don't let the squash begin to fall apart. Then toss in the chopped basil.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente, a few minutes shy of the package directions. Drain the pasta, and toss it in the skillet with the tomato sauce and basil.

4. Butter a 9-x-13-inch baking dish. In a medium bowl, toss together the two cheeses. Spread half the pasta and sauce in the baking dish, and top with half the cheese. Layer the remaining pasta and sauce, then the remaining cheese.

5. Bake, uncovered, until browned and bubbly, about 20 minutes.

And the Caponata:

Sicilian Caponata

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs eggplant
  • 2-1/2 tsp salt
  • ½ cup red wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 medium onions, peeled cut in 1-1/2 inch chunks
  • 2 cups celery, trimmed cut in 1-inch chunks
  • 1 cup cerignola or other large green brine-cured olives, pitted and cut in ½-inch pieces
  • 1 pound fresh plum tomatoes
  • 1 cup vegetable oil
  • 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/3 cup small capers, drained
  • 10 large fresh basil leaves

Directions

Trim the eggplants and slice them (skin on) into chunks about 2-inches long and 1-inch thick. Toss the chunks with 2 teaspoons of salt and drain in a colander for 30 minutes to an hour. Rinse and pat them dry with paper towels.

Meanwhile pour the red wine vinegar and ½ cup water into the small pan, stir in the sugar and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced by half and syrupy, then remove from the heat.

Slice the onions into 1-1/2 pieces—you should have about 4 cups. Trim the celery stalks (and peel them if they’re tough and stringy) then chop in 1-inch chunks. Slice the plum tomatoes lengthwise into 1-inch thick wedges; scrape out the seeds and put the wedges in a sieve to drain off the juices. Roughly chop the pitted olives into ½-inch pieces.

To fry the eggplant, pour the cup of vegetable oil into the skillet and set over medium heat. Spread all the eggplant chunks in the hot oil and fry for 10 to 15 minutes, tossing and stirring frequently, until the eggplant is soft and cooked through and nicely browned on all sides. Turn off the heat, lift the chunks out of the oil with a slotted spoon and spread them on paper towels to drain. Discard the frying oil and wipe out the skillet.

Pour ¼ cup of the olive oil in the skillet and set it over medium heat. Stir in the onion and celery chunks, season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook, tossing often, until they’ve wilted and lightly colored, 8 minutes or so. Toss in the olives and the capers, heat quickly until sizzling, then scatter in the tomatoes wedges and fold them in with the other vegetables. Season with another ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until the tomatoes are hot and softened but still holding their shape, about 5 minutes.

Spread the eggplant chunks on top of the onions and tomatoes, still over medium heat, and turn them in gently with a big spoon or spatula. When everything is sizzling, pour the vinegar syrup all over and stir it in. Cook a bit longer, then drizzle another couple tablespoons of olive oil over and stir in.

Cook the vegetables together for about 10 minutes, then turn off the heat. Tear the basil leaves into shreds and stir them into the caponata. Taste and adjust the seasonings; let cool to room temperature and serve.

And the stuffed eggplant.

Melanzane Ripiene alla Pugliese

Ingredients:

  • 6 small or 2 medium/large eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds total)
  • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 1/2 tsp sea salt
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
  • 2 ripe medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
  • 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 cup grated Grana Padano
  • 1 cup grated Itallian Fontina
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh Italian parsley
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh mint

Method:

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Halve the eggplants lengthwise. Scoop out any seeds, then scoop out the flesh, leaving a 1/2 inch shell. Cut the eggplant flesh into small cubes. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season the inside of the eggplant shells with 1 teaspoon of salt., then brown them, cut side down, in the oil, about 2 minutes. Remove and place in an oiled baking dish, cut side up.

In the same skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the eggplant flesh and garlic. Once the eggplant has begun to wilt, add the tomatoes and crushed red pepper and cook until the eggplant is tender but the tomatoes retain their shape, about 5 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a bowl, stir in half the cheeses, parsley, and mint. Stuff the filling into the eggplant shells and sprinkle with the additional cheese. Cover with foil, and bake until the eggplant shells are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake until the top is browned, about 10 to 15 minutes more.

I used one good-sized eggplant and just adjusted the filling ingredients. I also used one of the peppers from the garden in place of the red pepper flakes.

It was a great dinner and we have caponata downstairs for treats this winter - if they last that long!

 


Gatò di Patate and Veggies from the Garden

Our friend George, in Sicily, has a lot of recipes on his website - very basic, simple Sicilian fare. It's the type of cooking that doesn't require a lot because the few ingredients used are quality. It's something we have lost with our factory farms and produce being shipped from six of the seven continents year-round.

We have whole generations, now, who will never get to experience the joy of eating those first ripe strawberries of the season. Or the anticipation of that first watermelon - and seeing how far you could spit the seeds. It's too bad... We have so much and take it all for granted.

While I have always been a farmer's market kinda guy - and do love exotic fruits and vegetables from around the world - I'm really really enjoying walking out into the back yard and picking vegetables for dinner. I know I've come late to the party - but at least I've shown up. It's proving that you're never too old to learn.

The first dish tonight, was George's Gatò di Patate. I thought the interesting thing about this is George says the gatò should be served cold! I served it hot right out of the oven and loved it. And, I imagine it would make a great cold side-dish. I'll taste the leftovers tomorrow and let you know my thoughts on it being served cold.

It takes a few pots and pans to get it all together, but it's definitely worth the effort!

I made it in a round casserole, but I think if I was to serve it cold I'd make it in a 9x13 pan. Cut in squares.

  • 1 kg of potatoes
  • 80 g of butter
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 2 egg whites
  • 80 g of salami
  • 80 g of cooked ham
  • 100 g of parmesan cheese
  • 250 g of provola and mozzarella cheese
  • salt & pepper
  • breadcrumbs
  • suet
  • parsley

Boil the potatoes, remove the peel and mash.

Add the butter, Parmesan cheese, egg yolks, the egg whites, crumbled salami and ham, parsley, salt and pepper. Mix everything well.

Grease with lard (suet) a saucepan, sprinkle the breadcrumbs and put between two layers of cream of potato the mozzarella into pieces and the provola cheese.

With a wooden spoon lined surface smooth. Bake at high heat and remove when golden.

The Gatò should be served cold.

The measurements are in metric because the whole entire world uses the metric system - except us. I remember 28 grams to the ounce from my cocaine-snorting days, so the conversions are pretty easy.

I used speck and pancetta in place of the salami and ham, and a blend of asiago, mozzarella, and fontina for the provolo and mozzarella. That's not a typo. The cheese he is using is a Sicilian cows milk cheese called provolo - not provolone. Use another Italian cheese - you're not going to find it locally.

Nonna cleaned her plate. She ate every single bit of it and commented on how much she liked it.

The squash came from the yard. Victor's never been a huge fan of the summer squashes - but he is now that we're growing our own! It really is a different product that the stuff you get in the store.

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All I did with this was saute a bit of onion in butter, add the cubed squash and let it cook a bit, toss in a chopped tomato, and some fresh basil, salt, and pepper. Quick, easy, and oh, so good!

That was the last purchased tomato of the season. We are about to get bombarded with them. The plan is to just gather them up and make sauce and can it - over and over until fall and no more tomatoes are left. Plus the normal tomato salad drizzled with our Sicilian olive oil.

The answer to the question will you still need me, will you still feed me when I'm sixty-four? is a resounding, YES.

I'm enjoying this!


Pesto Rolls and Rigatoni

I was in the mood for pasta, tonight and pasta, to me, means bread. You need something to sop up the sauce. My go-to breads are generally of the rustic-Italian style. I wanted something a bit different, tonight.

The weather outside is perfect for proofing dough, so I thought a basic white bread turned into pesto rolls would fit my need. Where my rustic Italian loaves are pretty much just flour, water, salt, and yeast, white bread needs a few more ingredients to make it lighter and more tender. Fat and sugar are the two ingredients used for tenderness - eggs and flour are for structure - so a bit of sugar and olive oil were used. I didn't think to take pictures of the dough when it first came out, or even when I formed them, but when I saw what the pan looked like after an hour outside, I grabbed the camera!

They were as good as they looked! Light and airy with a bit of a crusty crust.

This dough makes a really good loaf of sandwich bread and because there's no milk or eggs like many white breads, I'll be able to rework it at Thanksgiving for my great-nephew, Miles! I'm thinking maybe a savory pumpkin roll instead of the rolls I usually make. We shall see - we have a few months to work it out.

In the meantime, here's what I did...

Pesto Rolls

  • 1 cup lukewarm water
  • 1 pkg (2 1/2 tsp) active dry yeast
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 3 cups flour

Proof yeast in water with sugar.

With mixer on low, add flour and salt, and then drizzle in the oil. Mix with dough hook for about 6-8 minutes or until dough is smooth and silky. You don't want it sticky and you don't want it dry.

Oil top, cover, and let rise about an hour, until doubled.

Place dough on a lightly-floured surface and pat out with hands to a rectangle.

Spread with pesto and roll up from the long end. Slice into individual rolls and place close together on a oiled baking sheet. Cover and allow to proof again, until dounled.

Place in a preheated 350°F oven for about 30 minutes. Brush hot rolls with melted better, if desired.

Here's a simple pesto recipe. Blanching the basil really takes away a lot of the bitterness that some basil can have.

Pesto alla Genovese

  • 6 cups loosely packed basil leaves
  • 1/2 cup pine nuts
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 2/3 cup pecorino romano cheese

Soak basil in a large bowl of cold water; let stand 5 minutes. Qquickly blanch and immediately plunge into ice water.Combine nuts and garlic in blender jar and add the olive oil. Purée until nuts are very finely chopped and mixture is creamy. Add salt.

Slowly add basil to blender and purée just to combine. Add cheese and purée just to combine.

Place in bowl and cover with a thin film of oil.

And then we had the pasta!

This was a clean-out-the-'fridge-and-freezer dish! I had a few sausages and a few meatballs in the freezer, and some olives, mushrooms, and roasted red peppers in the 'fridge. Everything went into the pot with a quart of Victor's homemade sauce.

Dinner was really good!

 


Spaghetti for Victor's Birthday

The official birthday is tomorrow, but I have to work late, so the birthday dinner was tonight. Spaghetti with meat sauce and a big ol' white wine sausage. The sausages came from Reading Terminal Market. I made the sauce.

Tomorrow is the big day. And it's election day here in Pennsylvania. If you want to give Victor a nice birthday present, vote for Bernie. A big win would be a really nice gift!

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And back to the birthday boy...

We did a fun-filled weekend in New York. Stayed at The Grand Hyatt, met up with great friends, saw Kinky Boots, a great dinner in Little Italy, bought lots of new clothes, and, in general, just had a grand time.

I worked for Hyatt for 8 years and came close to opening the Grand Hyatt back circa 1980. I had put in 2 transfer requests - one to NYC and one to Boston. NYC was still under construction and Boston came through, first. When we checked in, I turned on the ol' charm at the front desk and for 15 minutes had the agent in hysterics. We talked old Hyatt, fun, birthdays, marriage, sleazy Times Square back in the day... we had a blast! She upgraded us to a Grand Club Over-sized King, sent up wine and cheese, we got early check-in and late check-out...

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It's difficult to say how different my life would have been had I moved to New York City in 1980. I'm rather pleased things turned out the way they did.

Friday night we saw Kinky Boots. I had heard of the show and figured it would be pretty good. I had no idea just how much fun it was going to be! No photos of the actual show - that's just not done - but what an excellent Drag Show! There was some definite talent on that stage.

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After the show, the actors did a collection for BC/EFA - Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS. We have been supporters for years, so I dropped a twenty into the bucket and got a new apron for work!

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Too much fun!

Saturday was spent downtown, for the most part. We started off at Eataly, walked the Highline Park, went to Chelsea Market, had lunch at Park, and ended back at the hotel with time to change and head to Pete & Jenni's room for the birthday bash pre-party.

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Festive! Wines and cheeses and crackers and meats...

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And wine...

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Quite a bit of wine, in fact...

And then we were off to Little Italy for dinner...

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We've eaten in almost every restaurant on Mulberry Street at one time or another and have never had a bad meal. We've just gravitated to whichever looked promising that night. This time had a great dinner at Da Nico. We played the Birthday Boy card, again - it was easy since Victor was wearing a huge "It's My Birthday" button - and got a great table for six outside in the back patio.

Victor ordered the special - a seafood linguine with a spicy red sauce...

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That bowl is the size of a family pasta bowl you get with the four bowls for eating. It was freaking huge. It easily had a pound of linguine underneath the whole lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, squid...

Mine was paltry by comparison - a breaded veal cutlet with arugula, tomatoes, and onions. Damn, it was good! Even the flippin' mashed potatoes were perfect! Every meal was good, the wine was good, the service was good, the prices were good. Dinner for six with bottles of wine, appetizers, coffees and espressos and after dinner drinks was under $400.00.

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We had freebie appetizers and desserts  - the staff came out and sang Happy Birthday - it was fun. The waiter was a hoot - typical flirting Italian - it was a good time, indeed.

But all good things must come to an end... It was back to the hotel, up early, a bit more shopping, and then on to Amtrak...

Home, Blanche, and Nonna awaited us.

I thought we needed to keep the Italian theme going, so Spaghetti was called for! We actually don't have spaghetti very often, anymore, because Nonna no longer likes it. Go figure. So she got her pasta and we had ours.

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But we all had dessert - Cannoli Cake to keep with the theme...

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I bought it. Every now and again we need a bakery cake, ya know?!?

So Victor's now on Medicare and I have another year to go. We're having fun and that's really all that matters...

Here's to more adventures - culinary and otherwise...