Sautéed Shredded Cabbage and Squash

11-09-15-cabbage-and-squash-2

I married a man who doesn't like cabbage. I mean, Victor has a bazillion or two other redeeming qualities, but every now and again, I miss my cabbage.

He's tried... He's even made me one of the best stuffed cabbage dishes, ever - courtesy of Ina Garten. But truth be known, if he never saw it again, he really wouldn't be all that upset.

And then we planted cabbage in the garden. Just a couple of heads, but, there it is.

That's a bit of a game-changer! It's one thing to eschew something at the store. It's another thing entirely when it's growing in your backyard. I don't think either of us really thought we were going to get actual heads of cabbage. Imagine our surprise when we did!

Naturally, if it's in the garden we have to eat it, so I started looking for some recipes, today. I wanted something that would pretty much hide the cabbage intensity and quickly found a recipe from the New York Times.

It's a mixture of shredded cabbage and shredded winter squash - in my case, it was a delicata - along with rice, eggs, and cheese. How could it be bad?!?

Sautéed Shredded Cabbage and Squash

adapted from the New York Times

for the vegetables:

  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 pound winter squash, peeled and shredded
  • ½ cup chopped onion
  • ¾ pound green cabbage, shredded
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

for the gratin:

  • 3 eggs
  • ½ cup low-fat milk
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1 cup rice or barley, cooked and cooled
  • 2 ounces Gruyère, grated (1/2 cup)
  • 1 ounce Parmesan, grated (1/4 cup)

put it together:

Start your rice.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy skillet or a wok and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the shredded winter squash and the garlic and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until not quite tender, about 10 minutes, and add the remaining oil, the cabbage, sage, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste.

Continue to cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375º and butter a 2-quart baking dish. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Add salt and pepper to taste, and stir in the cooked grains and the cooked vegetables.

Add the cheeses and stir everything together, then scrape into the prepared baking dish.

Bake 40 to 45 minutes, or until the top is lightly browned and the gratin is set. Allow to cool for 15 minutes or longer before serving. The gratin is good hot, warm or at room temperature.

I used dried sage and thyme - I always have dried herbs on hand - and cut the amount back to 1 teaspoon each.

The flavor was very much like that of a stuffing - and both Victor and Nonna loved it! Victor actually said I could cook it any time I wanted! That's a pretty big compliment from a non-cabbage-liker!

It really is full of Autumn flavors and I think it would be great for Thanksgiving!

Methinks we shall be making this, again!

 

 

 


Farfalle Pasta with Lamb Sausage and Pork

I was perusing old issues of La Cucina Italiana last night looking for dinner ideas. I am still pissed at Condé Nast for folding the US version of the magazine. It was the best food magazine out there - and puts Bon Appétit to shame. I still get the La Cucina emails - in Italian - and get some good recipes - also in Italian - but it's just not the same as getting the magazine and drooling over what's going to be the next meal.

I especially miss Victor's recreation of the Pasta Issues - where he would make the majority of the recipes from scratch with fresh pasta. They were some good-eating years.

The magazine is no more but I do have my dozen or so issues I had saved, so out they come now and again, for inspiration.

The inspiration for tonight's dinner came from a recipe from the 2011 Pasta Issue - Mafaldine al Ragù di Coniglio - Mafaldine Pasta with Rabbit.

I've had rabbit many times and really enjoy it, but it's not all that easy to find out here in 'burbia. Well... other than hopping through the yard, that is... but I prefer my lapin already dressed, thankyouverymuch.

So, fresh out of Thumper, I did have lamb sausage and a small pork loin end - perfect substitutes.

11-02-15-farfalle-with-pork-and-lamb-sausage-2

One of the things that intrigued me about this recipe was using a teaspoon of cocoa powder in the sauce - and a half-cup of milk. Two ingredients I usually don't associate with Italian pasta dishes. But both of them did their magic. This sauce totally rocks!

I used D'Artagnan Lamb Merguez Sausage because I wanted a bit of an earthy flavor to kinda mimic the rabbit. If I didn't have the sausage, I'd probably drop in a couple of chicken livers. Not a lot - just something for a bit of back-flavor.

Pasta with Lamb Sausage and Pork

  • 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 celery stalk, finely chopped
  • 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • Fine sea salt
  • 8 oz Lamb Merquez Sausage - removed from casing and crumbled
  • 2 lb pork loin - cut into 4 pieces
  • 1 1/2 cups dry red wine
  • 1/2 cup whole milk
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 pound mafaldine or pappardelle - or farfalle
  • 1/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

In a small bowl, whisk together the cocoa powder and water. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat oil until hot. Add onion, celery, and carrot; cook, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes, then stir in parsley and a pinch of salt. Add the meats and cook, covered, about 10 minutes. Add cocoa mixture, wine, and milk. Bring to a boil and then lower heat to a gentle simmer and cook, covered, until pork is tender - about 1 1/2 hours.

Remove from heat. Shred pork and return to skillet.

Cook pasta according to package instructions. When pasta is cooked, drain and add to ragù, mixing well. Add cheese and mix well.

Check for seasoning and add additional salt and/or pepper, as desired.

11-02-15-farfalle-with-pork-and-lamb-sausage-3

This is definitely one of those times I wish technology could allow for scents to be embedded in web pages. Not only did this taste fantastic, it filled the house with a really rich aroma. It was ridiculously simple to make - and I know I'll be making variations for years to come!

 

 


Flourless Chocolate Cake

I got a text at work on Saturday to bring home some whipping cream. Victor said I wouldn't be sorry.

Once again, the boy was right. I wasn't sorry. I was thrilled. Flourless Chocolate Cake was awaiting me!

Victor found the recipe years ago from Tyler Florence and has tweaked it over the years - and every time he makes it it is better than the time before. It is truly one of my most favorite desserts. It is dense and fudgy with a wicked good chocolate flavor. It calls for a full pound of chocolate - and the better the quality, the better the cake.

Flourless Chocolate Cake

  • 1 pound bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
  • 1 stick unsalted butter
  • 9 large eggs, separated
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
  • 1/4 cup strong black coffee
  • 2 cups heavy cream, cold
  • Powdered sugar, for dusting

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch springform pan.

Put the chocolate and butter into the top of a double boiler (or in a heatproof bowl) and heat over (but not touching) about 1-inch of simmering water until melted. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar in a mixing bowl until light yellow in color. Whisk a little of the chocolate mixture into the egg yolk mixture to temper the eggs – this will keep the eggs from scrambling from the heat of the chocolate; then whisk in the rest of the chocolate mixture.  Add the coffee and mix well.

Beat the egg whites in a mixing bowl until stiff peaks form and fold into the chocolate mixture. Pour into the prepared pan and bake until the cake is set, the top starts to crack and a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out with moist crumbs clinging to it, 25 to 30 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes, then remove sides of pan.

Serve at room temperature dusted with powdered sugar and the whipped cream.

Make one. You won't be sorry.

 

 


Cannelloni

Back in the '60s when I worked at Pirro's in San Francisco, we made an outrageous chicken cannelloni. Actually, all the food we made there was outrageously good. We made our own meatballs, shredded our own cheese, made fresh dough, pizza sauce, spaghetti sauce,  lasagne... everything was made from scratch. Hell, we even sliced our own mushrooms, salami, and other meats, and ground pork butts to make our own sausage.

I really learned a lot in those years. It was also my first management job, and I made every rookie mistake a new all-powerful manager could conceivably make - from firing a waitress at the beginning of her shift to having a really good cook quit because I was the boss and therefore, right. [I wasn't, surprise, surprise...]

My boss bought a building a few blocks away, and we tore down walls, laid tiles, built an open kitchen, landscaped an outdoor patio, and opened the new store with an expanded menu. My first opening and my first real dealings with the intricacies of the Health Department. He then bought a pizza place in Richmond, CA, started doing everything but paying attention to his businesses, got divorced, got remarried, got divorced, again... In the midst of it all I got into a fight with him one night, went across the street to a restaurant where I eventually ended up working, got stinking drunk, went home, packed up my car, and moved to Portland.

I've never been the impulsive type. Much.

Which leads me back to cannelloni... I don't really remember the recipe we did, other than it had ground chicken and lots of cheese, so I grabbed a copy of Lidia's cook book, checked out her recipe, and then decided to wing it.

10-26-15-canneloni-1

First thing I did was braise a bone-in chicken breast - the lonely one that has been taking up space in the freezer for months - with a couple of end-cut pork chops that have also been taking up valuable freezer space. Into the melange went fresh rosemary, chopped carrot, parsnip, onion, garlic, and celery - and a cup of white wine.

When the meats were done, I took them out and added last night's beans, along with pecorino romano, ricotta, and gorgonzola cheeses.

I used fresh lasagne sheets cut in half, because I didn't feel like making crespelle.

10-26-15-canneloni-2

Into the pan with a cheesy bechamel sauce, and into the oven.

10-26-15-canneloni-3

10-26-15-canneloni-4

I made six, we barely finished off two, each, and I had enough filling for at least a dozen more. The filling and leftover pasta squares went into the freezer. I'll do something with the sauce later in the week.

So back to Pirro's... My ex-boss pretty much lost the businesses. My nephew and my niece both worked there during high school, but the place had really gone even farther down hill under the new ownership.

Rumor has it that there's a new owner, again, and they're trying to recreate those glory years! I see that cannelloni is on the menu, too! I'll wager it's not the homemade stuff we created way back when, but I hope they make a go of it!

It really was the best pizza in the city.


Fagioli bianchi con pollo e salsiccia andouille

10-25-15-beans-sausage-chicken

It's getting to be time to clean up the garden. We only had a couple months of produce, this year, but we plan on a good 8 or 9 months next year. We're rookies and still have a lot to learn - but we ended up with some fun stuff in spite of our non-planning.

Victor has decided he actually likes beets! Not the canned variety which he continues to eschew, but fresh from the garden. I like them any way they arrive on my plate, but I do agree that fresh is best.

Heck, anything right out of the garden is best. I am so glad we finally extended the yard and had the raised beds put in. We've only been here 15 years - can't rush into anything, ya know...

Today, I pulled the last of the beets, most of the leeks, and chard... I thought they would fit in perfectly with my spin on a La Cucina Italiana recipe I've done in the past. It's black beans in a duck ragu.

I didn't have the duck or the black beans, but I did have white beans, chicken, and andouille sausage - along with beets, chard, and leeks from the garden, so I made up a new version. And, just for the hell of it, I put a fried egg on top.

It was pretty good, if I do say so m'self...

Here's the original recipe - I've actually never followed it completely, but it makes for a great starting off point.

Fagioli Neri con Ragù di Anatra

Black Beans with Duck Ragù
adapted from La Cucina Italiana

  • 1 1/2 cups dried black beans
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling
  • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 1 pound boneless duck breast, skin removed and meat cut into 1/2″ cubes
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
  • 1 celery rib, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
  • 1 small rosemary sprig
  • fine sea salt
  • freshly-ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine

Rinse beans, then place in a large saucepan and cover with water by 3 inches.  Soak for 8 hours or overnight.

Add bay leaf and 1 tbsp oil to the saucepan with the beans, then place pan over medium heat and bring liquid to a simmer.  Reduce to a bare simmer and cook until beans are very tender, adding water as necessary to keep beans covered by about 1/2 inch, 30 minutes to 1 hour (depending on freshness of beans).

Reserving 1/2 cup of bean cooking liquid, drain beans.

In a large saucepan, heat butter and remaining tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat.  Add duck and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes.  Add onion, carrot, celery, garlic, rosemary, and generous pinch of salt and pepper.  Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes.  Remove and discard rosemary, then add wine.  Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until wine is evaporated, about 10 minutes.  Add reserved cooking liquid, reduce heat to low, and cook, covered, until duck is tender, about 45 minutes.

Add beans to ragù and cook, covered, until warmed through, about 10 minutes.

And since I was cooking beans for dinner, we needed a loaf of bread, as well...

10-25-15-poppy-seed-onion-bread-2

This is an Onion and Poppy Seed Bread  from my Mom's Cook Books. I've made it a couple of times in the past but this time I used the leeks from our garden in place of the onions. It came out really, really good. The bread is very much like a stuffed challah. It's buttery and eggy with a light crumb - and the onion and poppy seed really make it unique.

Here's the bread recipe, as well...  This one I follow pretty closely.

Onion Poppy Seed Bread

Bread

  • 1 pkg active dry yeast
  • 1/4 cup warm water
  • 4 - 4 1/2 cups unsifted all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup butter or margarine, melted
  • 1 cup warm milk
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 3/4 tsp salt
  • 1 egg

Filling

  • 1 cup chopped onion
  • 1/4 cup butter or margarine, melted
  • 3 tbsp poppy seeds
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1 egg, beaten – for glaze

In large mixer bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. Add 2 cups flour, melted butter, milk, sugar, salt, and 1 egg. Beat at medium speed for 2 minutes, scraping sides of bowl occasionally. With wooden spoon, stir in enough additional flour to make a stiff dough – about 2 cups. Spoon onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, turn to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm place, free from draft, until double in bulk, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, prepare filling: In small bowl, combine onion, melted butter or margarine, poppy seeds, and 1/4 teaspoon salt; set aside.

Punch dough down. On lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 20×8-inch rectangle. Cut in half from 8-inch side, forming two 20×4-inch rectangles.  Spread onion filling onto each to within 1/2 inch of edges. Pinch seams to seal forming a long rope. Repeat with remaining dough. Twist the ropes together. On lightly greased baking sheet, form dough into a ring. Cover and let rise, in warm place, free from draft, until double in bulkm about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush dough ring with the remaining egg. Sprinkle with additional poppy seeds and chopped onion, if desired. Bake for 40 minutes or until bread sounds hollow when tapped with fingers. Cool slightly on wire rack. Makes 1 loaf, about 28 1-inch slices. About 150 calories per slice.

I usually get by with 4 cups of flour. Your results may vary. I also mix it all in the mixer but I really take my time adding the melted butter to make sure it really incorporates into the dough.

The weather is definitely changing - and that means even more homemade breads... I'm going to have to search Mom's recipes to find something I haven't made. I'm sure there's something there...

And, gee... we have Apple Pie for dessert. Rough night at our house...


A Rare Saturday Off

It's rare that I'm off on a Saturday. The normal days off are Sunday and Monday, so when Diane asked me if I could switch with her this weekend, I thought, what the heck... let's see what being off on a different day is like...

The first thing I did was totally screw up Victor's routine. Saturday is his laundry day, house-cleaning day, and general put-around-the-house time. That ended up going right outside the window.

Since I had already screwed up the routine, I decided it was time to do some Saturday Cooking!

We're expecting the first big frost this weekend, so I thought I would start by harvesting some of the greens out back and see about making a pot of soup.

10-17-15-garden-greens

I am of the school that any and all greens can go into soup. It matters not that we buy these things in little bags marked "salad." They can be cooked. Trust me on this. And cooked, they got!

I had a nice butternut squash that became the base. I peeled, cubed, and roasted it first, and then it went into the soup pot with onions and garlic that I had chopped and browned.

And then went a couple of quarts of chicken stock Victor had made the other day. Whenever I roast a chicken, Victor takes the carcass and makes stock. Half stays in the 'fridge and half goes into the freezer. It's nice to have a man around the house...

I then chopped up the two lettuces and added them - along with a Murasaki sweet potato I had peeled the other day but not used. Waste not, want not, ya know...

After simmering and pureeing it with my immersion blender, I caramelized an onion, added chopped chard, and when it wilted, I added it all to the soup, added a bit of salt and pepper, some shaved cheese and chopped chard for garnish.

10-17-15-butternut-squash-soup

Nonna took a look, made a grimace, and then proceeded to eat her entire bowl. She liked it.

Hot soup calls for bread, so I made a loaf of the Sicilian Focaccia Ragusata we had when we were in Sicily last year. I used a can of Greek eggplant and tomatoes instead of the sliced eggplant in the recipe and it came out great.

10-17-15-sicilian-focaccia

And since I had dinner and bread made, I needed to make dessert - so I made a Pumpkin Pie.

10-17-15-pumpkin-pie

A couple of weeks ago I made about 16 pints of pumpkin pie filling and canned it all. After making it all and getting it into the jars, I went to see how long I needed to pressure can it and everywhere I looked, it said don't can pumpkin puree. Had I read that prior to making 16 pints of pumpkin pie filling, I wouldn't have done it. But I had already made it and I didn't have room in the freezer for 16 pint jars. So... I canned it anyway. I did it long enough and hot enough that I'm not concerned about it growing anything... Waste not, want not, seconda parte.

The filling is great - just add 2 eggs and a can of evaporated milk.

10-17-15-pumpkin-pie-filling

Work tomorrow, Monday is my annual physical, and we have a rare out to dinner on Wednesday with friends from California...

The excitement just never stops.

 

 


Beets from the Garden

Our garden out back has been paying off! Victor even ate beets tonight - and liked them!

It is so much fun walking out back and getting things for dinner, but our first harvests have definitely let us know where we need to plant more intelligently.

We're both novices at the whole gardening business. Other than tomatoes and peppers, we haven't done a lot, so, when we got back from vacation in early September, we planted lots of stuff without really thinking out usage. Typical rookie stuff, planting everything at once instead of spreading it out so it doesn't all ripen on the same day. Basic DUH! stuff...

So now we're eating fast - and blanching and freezing some stuff, as well.

But back to those beets...

WOW! What a difference just-picked makes!

10-15-15-beets-2

They were so fragrant and crisp.

After washing and peeling, I sliced them into thick slices and - per Victor's request - sauteed them in olive oil and garlic. And a pinch of salt and pepper.

10-15-15-beets-3

I just let them cook in the pan and after flipping them splashed in some water to help steam them and tenderize them a bit. The water evaporated away and a luscious caramelized beet was in the pan!

Victor, who has never cared for beets and absolutely loathes pickled beets, said I should pickle some! We don't really have enough to can this time around, but methinks I can get another batch going next year. We shall see...

In the meantime, there's a few more things out there that need picking. I think Saturday is going to be a fun garden dinner!


Apple Roses

 

Apple Roses have popped up on my Facebook feed a few times in the last couple of weeks, so I thought it was time to try them, myself.

They are just as easy as the video below states - and really, really good!

I used half apples - thanks Mike and Barbara - and half pears, and used seedless Marionberry jam with some and peach-apricot jam with the others. They all came out pretty stellar.

These really are easy to do and really impressive! They'll be great for a Thanksgiving dessert table!


Italian Wedding Soup and Fresh Bread

09-27-15-bread

The Pope is in town so I thought I'd bake some bread in case he stopped by and wanted to feed the neighborhood, or something. Victor made soup - Italian Wedding Soup - because even though the Pope is from Argentina, his father was born in Italy and his mother's parents were born in Italy - and you know how Italians are around here... if your grandparents, great-grandparents, or great-great-grandparents were born in Italy - you're Italian. End of discussion. We thought Wedding Soup was fitting because he was here for the World Meeting of Families, not to mention we have an abundance of greens in our garden, right now!

We decided to stay out here in 'burbia instead of trekking into the city. I just couldn't imagine dealing with the crowds, barricades, security checkpoints, and all that. Even after a fun and uplifting day, I imagine I would be a cranky guy trying to get my SEPTA train back home, tonight.

And speaking of home... the garden has gone crazy! We planted lots of fall greens and they are really coming through! Tomorrow night I'm cooking up New Zealand Spinach, and some of the beets are looking like they're almost ready. Fun, indeed!

The bread, today, was my favorite Pane Pugliese. I have been making this bread for nigh on 35 years. It really is one of my favorite breads and it never - ever - fails. I try to keep a biga on hand for those almost-spur-of-of-the-moment loaves of bread since it needs to be made a day in advance. This was concept-to-table in 4 hours.

And while the dough was rising, Victor was making soup.

09-27-15-italian-wedding-soup

This is such a great soup. Victor also made fresh chicken stock from the bird I roasted the other night so it is really homemade!

Italian Wedding Soup

Meatballs

  • 1 lb ground beef
  • 1/2 cup onion, minced
  • 1 tsp garlic, minced
  • 1/2 cup breadcrumbs
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan
  • 1 large egg
  • Salt & Pepper, to taste

Soup

  • 3 qts chicken broth
  • 1 lb escarole, chopped
  • 2 large eggs
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make meat balls: Mix all ingredients together and form into very small meat balls- about the size of a prize shooting marble. Place on a sheet pan off to the side.

Make the soup: Bring the broth to a boil in a large pot. Add the meatballs and escarole and simmer until the meatballs are cooked through and the escarole is tender – about 10 minutes.

To add the egg: Whisk the eggs to blend. Stir the soup in a circular motion. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the moving broth, stirring gently with a large fork to form thin stands of egg.

Ladle into bowls and add additional grated cheese and a drizzle of good-quality olive oil.

The soup is deeply satisfying and made all the better with crusty bread. And... there's enough left over for lunch, tomorrow.

'Tis a good day, indeed!


Baked Crêpes Cacciatore with Parmesan Cream Sauce

08-17-15-baked-crepes-cacciatore-6

I tend to toss cooking magazines, nowadays... I have subscribed to, read, saved, and otherwise consumed so many magazines over the years, I could star in an episode of Hoarders. I probably have 50 or so left - mainly La Cucina Italiana since they no longer publish - but there's a few others that have made the cut, as well - like the April 2012 issue of Fine Cooking.

It's a pretty good magazine and, unlike Bon Appetit, there's always something I feel like making. Sometimes I take a while to get around to it, but that's life, ya know?!?

The cacciatore crepes called out to me the first time I saw the recipe but that was about the time Nonna had moved in and things were in a bit of an uproar. And then another magazine arrives and another arrives, and the focus goes elsewhere.

I was culling the remaining magazines the other day - I really am trying to pare down - when I saw the recipe, again. This time, I knew I was making it.

We've really been in a rut around here. Nonna's eating habits are a challenge, at times. She will zero in on something and want it all the time - and then, without notice, decide she no longer likes it. It definitely makes for some interesting mealtimes. The recipe as written had several things she's no longer interested in - mushrooms, red peppers, and chili peppers, to name but three - but the basic concept was sound.

She likes manicotti and other stuffed pasta, so I figured I could work this into a meal she - and we - would like!

First thing I did was make the filling. I used tomatoes from the garden, as well as some cooked, shredded turkey that was in the freezer.

08-17-15-baked-crepes-cacciatore-1

Then it was time to make the crêpes. These use browned butter which adds a nice nuttiness to the dish. I don't flip my crêpes when I make them - they cook through just fine.

08-17-15-baked-crepes-cacciatore-2

Then it was time for the sauce. Just heavy cream and parmesan cheese. Super easy.

08-17-15-baked-crepes-cacciatore-4

Putting it all together was a snap, as well. They were rolled and in the pan in no time, at all.

08-17-15-baked-crepes-cacciatore-3

And, finally, the finished product...

08-17-15-baked-crepes-cacciatore-5

They really did rock the casbah. Even Nonna ate two of them! The crêpes were light and delicate and the sauce added its crowning glory. I can see lots of variations on a theme, here!

Here's the recipe as written at Fine Cooking. It looks long, but it really is easy. Just do it in steps.

Baked Crêpes Cacciatore with Parmesan Cream Sauce

adapted from Fine Cooking Magazine

For the filling:

  • 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 Tbs. unsalted butter; more softened for the baking dish
  • 8 oz. cremini or white button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 2-1/2 cups)
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 medium (8 oz.) red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into small dice
  • 1 large mild fresh green chile (such as Anaheim) cored, seeded, and cut into small dice
  • 1/2 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
  • 1 Tbs. all-purpose unbleached flour
  • 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  • 1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
  • 1/4 tsp. hot sauce
  • 2 cups chopped leftover roast chicken or store-bought rotisserie chicken

For the cheese sauce:

  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 3 oz. (1-1/2 cups) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Freshly ground black pepper

For assembly:

  • 12 8-inch crêpes, warmed if made ahead
  • 1 tsp. sweet paprika (optional)

Make the filling:

In a 12-inch skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil and the butter over medium-high heat until sizzling. Add the mushrooms, season with 1/2 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms release much of their liquid and begin to brown, 7 to 9 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and return the skillet to the heat.

Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil, the bell pepper, chile, onion, rosemary, and 1 tsp. salt. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes; don’t let them brown.

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and cook for a minute or so, stirring and scraping so the flour gets mixed with the fat and starts to toast a bit. Add the broth and let it come to a simmer, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, lemon juice, and hot sauce; bring to a simmer again and cook for 1 to 2 minutes to slightly thicken the sauce.

Add the chicken and mushrooms and simmer for a few minutes until everything is heated through. Remove from the heat and season to taste with more salt, pepper, hot sauce, or lemon juice. Cover the filling and keep warm.

Make the cheese sauce:

In a heavy-duty 1-quart saucepan, bring the cream to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a lively simmer and cook until the cream has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and add the cheese, stirring until melted. Season generously with pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Assemble and bake the crêpes:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking dish.

Working with a few crêpes at a time, lay them on a clean work surface. Spoon about 3 heaping Tbs. of the filling evenly onto the bottom third of each crêpe. Fold the bottom edge of each crêpe up and over the filling, fold the sides in toward the center, and finish rolling up from the bottom. Evenly arrange the crêpes seam side down in a single layer in the baking dish.

Spread the cheese sauce evenly over the crêpes and sprinkle with the paprika (if using). Bake until the sauce is golden and bubbling slightly, 12 to 16 minutes. Serve.

 

 

 


Australian Garlic Salt

08-12-15-otway-fields-5

Through the miracle of Facebook, I was online-talking a couple of weeks ago with a cousin who lives in Australia. Kathryn and I have never actually met in person but were introduced through other cousins from Omaha. She is originally an Omaha girl but has lived down under for quite some time. In typical family-fashion, we've become fast friends.

I've never been to Australia. I came close - Singapore and then through the Java sea when in Uncle Sam's Yacht Club - but that other-side-of-the-world-flight-as-a-civilian has eluded me, thus far. However... I'm thinking that the trip may just be worth it one of these days!

We were chatting about food - how unusual is that?!? - when she mentioned some garlic salts she had gotten from a place south of Melbourne - Otway Fields - and said she'd send me a couple of packets.

Yesterday, the packets arrived!

08-12-15-otway-fields-1

What fun to get local food from 17000 kilometers away!  You should see it! After opening the packet, the salt sparkled. I wish the picture could capture the way the light was reflecting off the crystals. It really did look magical.

08-12-15-otway-fields-2

And the flavor... WOW! The Black Garlic has really been tamed by the long cooking - 40 days of heating - but the flavor is intense. Not garlic as you expect, but a rich, deep, earthy flavor that is really unique. The Smoked Garlic Salt has a stronger garlic flavor with a smoky undercurrent. Another unique flavor. As you may know, I'm a bit of a spice junkie. I think there are close to 50 different herbs and spices in the cabinet and 13 or so different salts. Well... 15, now. They're all there for a reason and they now have some excellent company. They have both put a smile on my face!

I coated a tri-tip roast quite liberally with the black garlic salt and tossed it on the barbie - and it came out divine!

08-12-15-otway-fields-3

I didn't add any other spices or seasonings - I wanted to see how it would fare on its own - and it passed the test with flying colors.

I think the next dish may be potato salad. The flavors would be perfect. And I still have to try the smoked garlic salt. That one definitely has a garlic kick to it  - and a smokiness that may be calling for a piece of white fish of some sort... We shall see.

In the meantime, we had a great dinner and the joy of more to come!

Thanks, Kathryn!!!

 


Fagioli Rossi con Ragù di Anatra

 

I was really bummed when La Cucina Italiana ceased publication. It was by far my favorite cooking magazine. I read every issue cover-to-cover and always found lots of recipes and new ideas. It really was my go-to for new ideas.

And then it went away. Condé Nast - the evil publishing empire - closed down the US magazine without notice last year and changed my subscription to Bon Appétit. Bon Appétit is quite juvenile after reading La Cucina Italiana. Horrible photography, ridiculous fonts and graphics... I'm not sure who their market is, nowadays, but it certainly isn't anyone who actually likes to cook.

But I digress...

I saved many issues, and went perusing today. I'm glad I did - I found a great recipe for black beans and duck in the November 2011 edition.

I had a smoked duck breast in the freezer  - don't ask - and it really needed using. I also had 5 grilled lamb rib chops from last night that were taking up space in the 'fridge. It was too late to soak and cook dried beans, but I had a can of light red kidney beans. The rest of the ingredients were pretty much pantry staples. I went to work.

As per usual, what I did and what the recipe states are different, so I'm going to give you the recipe pretty much as written in the now-defunct magazine. It can be your guide for creating something really tasty - and really easy.

Fagioli Neri con Ragù di Anatra

Black Beans with Duck Ragù
adapted from La Cucina Italiana magazine

  • 1 1/2 cups dried black beans
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 1 lb boneless duck breast, skin removed, and cut into 1/2" cubes
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely chopped
  • 1 celery rib, finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • salt and pepper

Rinse beans and place in large saucepan. Cover with water by 3" and soak overnight.

The following day, add bay leaf and 1 tbsp oil to pot and bring mixture to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat to a bare simmer, and cook until beans are very tender - 30 minutes to an hour, depending upon the beans.

Drain beans, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.

In a large saucepan, heat butter and remaining tbsp olive oil. Add duck and cook, stirring occasionally, until duck is browned on all sides.

Add onion, celery, carrots, garlic, rosemary, and salt and pepper, to taste. Reduce heat to medium, and cook until vegetables are softened.

Remove and discard rosemary, and add wine.

Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until wine has evaporated. Add reserved cooking liquid, cover, and simmer until duck is tender - about 45 minutes.

Add the drained beans to the ragû, cover, and continue cooking until everything is heated through - about 10 minutes.

Serve over polenta, if desired.

Polenta is Italian cornmeal mush. I seriously love it. Sadly, Nonna doesn't like it - it reminds her of the Sons of Italy Orphanage she spent time in during her youth. I don't make it as often as I used to, but when it does, I just give her mashed potatoes.

You don't need a bag marked "polenta" to make dinner. My preference is for coarse, but your preference is your preference. You're eating it. And if you're cooking for me, I'm eating what you're serving. No arguments from me.

I always add shredded cheese - always whatever is already in the 'fridge. Tonight I used about a half-cup of shredded mozzarella that was left from dinner a few nights ago. I've used everything from Boursin to Cheddar, Monterey Jack to Gouda, Parmesan to Asiago - and back again. Use what you like.

Cheesy Polenta

  • 2 cups milk
  • 1/2 cup polenta
  • 1 tsp garlic powder
  • 1/2 tsp onion powder
  • 1/2 cup cheese of your choice
  • salt and pepper, to taste

Bring milk and spices to a boil.  Add polenta slowly, stirring constantly.  Reduce heat and continue cooking as per package instructions.  Stir in cheese and serve.

It all came out great.