Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette

It was so nice to come home tonight to dinner cooking.  I do love a man who can cook!  And Victor can definitely cook.

I've mentioned many times that a little twist is all it takes to go from simple to sumptuous.  It's that little bit of unexpected.  Victor pulled that one off tonight with a roasted garlic vinaigrette to go atop a simple pork tenderloin.  The concept came from Giada but the execution was pure Victor.

Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette

Roasted Garlic:

  • 2 heads garlic
  • olive oil
  • salt & pepper

Slice garlic heads in half through equator.  Place cut-side up on a square of foil.  Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Fold foil up to fully enclose garlic and roast at 350° for about an hour - or until garlic soft and golden brown.  Cool.

Vinaigrette:

  • Roasted garlic
  • 1 tsp Italian seasoning
  • 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 3/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 2 tbsp water
  • salt and pepper, to taste

Squeeze garlic into blender.  Add Italian seasoning, sugar, vinegar, and 2 tbsp water.  Blend well.  With machine running, add olive oil in a slow, steady stream.  Taste for seasoning and add salt & pepper, as desired.

It really did come out good.  Roasted garlic is one of the nectars of the gods and when it's blended with good balsamic vinegar and good olive oil, there's just no stopping it!  I first questioned why it needed additional sugar when roasted garlic and balsamic have a sweetness to them, already, but I think the pinch of sugar helps to pull the two somewhat-conflicting sweetnesses together.  Whatever the reason, it worked.

It made a cup and a half of dressing and we really only used a couple of tablespoons at the most, so the rest went into the 'fridge for salads later this week.

Yes, it definitely worked.

 

 


Rice Cakes and Lamb Chops

The lamb chops were a given for dinner tonight.  i had picked them up Monday and actually planned to have them last night.  The soup trumped the chops  for one meal, but I don't like keeping raw meats in the 'fridge more than a day or two.

So lamb chops were a given.  The side dish wasn't.

Staring blankly in the cupboard - hoping for inspiration or Divine Intervention - I saw five different kinds of rice.  But plain ol' rice with grilled lamb chops just didn't seem right.  The wheels started turning and the next thing I knew, Rice Cakes were being born!

I had thought of a risotto rice cake that I've made in the past and, not wanting to make risotto, just came up with a recipe on the fly.  I used a whole grain mahogany rice but you can use what you like.  I definitely had to refrigerate the rice balls before making them into patties.  If I had used a stickier rice they probably wouldn't have been as fussy.

Rice Cakes

  • 1 1/2 cups cooked rice, cooled
  • 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
  • 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
  • 2 scallions, chopped
  • 2 tbsp sour cream
  • 1/4 cup crumbled gorgonzola cheese
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tsp garlic powder
  • sat and pepper, to taste

Mix all ingredients and scoop into equal-sized portions.  Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

Lightly press down to form patty.  Carefully dredge in more panko bread crumbs and fry in skillet until browned.  Carefully flip and continue cooking until browned and heated through.

I do have to admit that these were pretty good. They had a great crunch, the rice was creamy, and the walnuts gave another nice texture. The recipe made 8 cakes.  I froze four of them for a later date.

The lamb chops were marinated in olive oil, garlic, red wine, and rosemary before being grilled.

A reasonably simple dinner.

 

 


Cream of Asparagus Soup

Last week I received an email recipe from La Cucina Italiana.  It was a Spring soup - asparagus with an over-easy egg floating in it.  It looked like gastronomic heaven on earth.  And it was almost 80° outside.  I saved the recipe, thinking I might make it in the fall - with frozen asparagus.  All the while, I kept spying beautiful bunches of fresh asparagus at the store.

And then the culinary gods smiled down upon me.  It went to 28° last night.  Time to make soup!

I used the magazine's idea and my own recipe for the soup.  Soups are one of those things that I just instinctively throw together.  They really are one of the easier things to make.  But while the soup itself is easy to make, the accoutrement is another story...

I've done eggs over several different dishes, but seeing a fried egg floating upon a sea of asparagus soup was pure genius.  Any good cook will tell you that it's the details that make a good recipe great.  The finishing touches that turn ordinary into extraordinary. This was one of those moments.

And pure gastronomic heaven.

Cream of Asparagus Soup

  • 2 bunches asparagus (about 2 pounds)
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 4 cups chicken broth
  • 2 cups water
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • salt and pepper, to taste

Remove tips from one bunch of asparagus and set aside.  Cut remaining asparagus into 2" pieces.

Saute onion and garlic in a pat of butter.  When translucent, add asparagus.  Saute a few minutes and then add broth and water.  Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer about 20 minutes or until asparagus is cooked through and very soft.

Using an immersion blender, cream soup.  Add cream and sour cream and mix well.  Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper, to taste.

Meanwhile, blanch reserved asparagus tips and set aside.

Ladle soup into bowls and top with a single fried egg.  Add asparagus tips to garnish.

The magazine called for little toasted baguette slices.  I sliced up a fresh semolina loaf.

The hot soup continues to cook the egg, so don't be afraid to add it a bit underdone for your normal taste.

Victor raved.  He said it was the best soup I have ever made.  I'll take the compliment, but there are a few I've liked better...  But it really was good.  So good that I'm not going to care what the weather is next time I make it.

Yum.

 

 

 

 

 


Chicken on the Barbie

So the first official day of Spring was in the mid-70's today.  I say official, because it's pretty much been spring around here since October.  One of the warmest winters in recorded history.  It's supposed to hit 78° tomorrow and 80° on Thursday and Friday.  It's definitely making me nervous about summer...

But regardless of the time of year, hot weather means firing up the grill.  Cold weather means firing up the grill, also, but we don't get nearly the weird looks when it's nice out as we do when it's snowing... Go figure.

Tonight's dinner was as basic as basic can be...  bone-in chicken breasts with bottled bbq sauce, grilled asparagus with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and roasted red potatoes.  The chicken cooked for about 35 minutes and was just perfectly done.  Bone-n chicken just has so much more flavor than its boneless-skinless counterpart.  And all it takes is one fresh off the grill to remind me that I really need to buy more...

And to top it all of, we had ice cream for dessert - because it's still 70° at 8pm.

I really could get used to this weather.  No heat, no air conditioning...  Windows open...  Slight breeze...

Did I mention I'm slightly worried about the coming summer?!?

 


A Cross-Cultural St Paddy's Day

Ah...  St Paddy's Day...  A truly Irish-American holiday.  And my grandfather's birthday!  He was born March 17, 1896.  Happy Birthday, Grandpa!

The Irish never celebrated St Paddy's Day as we do here - and they most certainly didn't eat Corned Beef and Cabbage!  They still don't.  You'll now find it in tourist restaurants, but it has never been an Irish staple.  Corned beef has been produced in Ireland for hundreds of years - but it wasn't for the Irish.  it was all owned and exported by the British.  The cattle industry actually played a huge role in the potato famine.  The best land was owned by the English and used for grazing.  The people were forced onto marginal lands where not much would or could grow.  The potato became the sole crop and food - and when it failed...  well... we know the history...

Big parades and celebrations for St Patrick are a relatively new thing in Ireland, as well.  So many people would come to Ireland expecting a huge celebration that they finally gave in and started having one.

And that brings us back to Corned Beef and Cabbage.

The closest Irish dish would be bacon and cabbage - not the same bacon we have with our eggs in the morning - but in America, corned beef was a lot less expensive.  It was more than likely introduced by Jewish butchers, since the Irish and the Jews shared a lot of ghettos in those early years.  We have a long history of not being very nice to immigrants.

But fast-forward many years and the concept of Corned Beef and Cabbage on St Patrick's Day is firmly entrenched in our culture.  It's everywhere.

Except our house.

Victor really doesn't like cooked cabbage.  I've made it and he's eaten it, but it really was more back in those early days of the relationship when people will just do anything for the other.  Closing in on 18 years later, we're a little more open and direct.

So what does one do on St Patrick's Day?!?  Make Reuben's and Corned Beef Specials!

Victor won't touch a  Reuben, either.  Sauerkraut?!?  He'd rather put pins in his eyes.  And a Corned Beef Special is lost on me.  Cole slaw on a corned beef sandwich sandwich?!?  Meh.

So we ended up with vastly different sandwiches that were both comprised of the same four main ingredients: rye bread, Russian dressing, cabbage, and corned beef.  To his I added the aforementioned cole slaw.  Raw cabbage is not an issue.  For mine, I added swiss cheese and sauerkraut - and then grilled it to a crusty-crunchy golden-brown.

The Corned Beef Special has its roots in Philadelphia.  It's an east coast  thing.  The reuben, on the other hand, probably traces its roots to the Blackstone Hotel in Omaha.  A defunct deli in New York also claimed ownership, but my father was from Omaha.  I'm going with the family connection.

Dinner was fun.  Both of us were in gastronomic heaven with our favorites.

A great - if slightly non-traditional - St Paddy's Day, indeed!

 

 


Spring Salads

By the time March hits, I'm usually craving salads.  Usually, the weather isn't cooperating and I'm still making soups and stews.

Today, the weather is cooperating.  It's 72° outside.  I'm making salads.

I love big ol' salads for dinner.  Fresh vegetables, juicy red ripe tomatoes, and something off the grill - chicken, beef, pork...  It really doesn't matter - they're all good.

Tonight's gastronomic delight started with a bed of romaine lettuce.  Onto it went grilled asparagus and broccoli florettes that had been marinated in olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and garlic.  Very basic, very simple, very tasty.  Next was an avocado half and half a New York tomato. (No Florida tomatoes in this house!!)  Next went a grilled chicken breast that had been marinated in red wine, garlic, and olive oil.  Again, very basic, but also very good.

And it was topped with a homemade 1000 Island dressing.  We generally don't buy bottled dressings.  Even the "good" ones generally have more ingredients than I need.  Tonight's was mayo, ketchup, dijon mustard, chopped pickle, and a bit of cream to thin.  Salt, pepper, garlic powder.  The other nice thing about making your own dressing is not having numerous science experiments growing in the 'fridge.  Make just what you need with ingredients already in the house and it's always fresh.  And less expensive!

It actually looks like we're in for a couple more days of Spring-like weather, so I'll have to see what other warmer-weather ideas come to mind.

 

 

 


Knotted Dinner Rolls

 

I have been looking at this recipe for six months telling myself I have to make these.

I am so sorry I waited so long!

They are from Fine Cooking magazine.  And it is rapidly becoming my favorite cooking magazine!

These may just be the best - and easiest - dinner rolls I have ever made.  They are light, airy, flavorful... In a word... perfect.

I followed the recipe exactly and they came out exactly as pictured.  These will definitely be my "go-to" dinner roll from now on.

Knotted Dinner Rolls

by Peter Reinhart

From Fine Cooking Magazine

For the dough

  • 1-1/2 cups whole milk; more as needed
  • 1 packet (1/4 oz. or 2-1/4 tsp.) instant or active dry yeast
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil; more as needed
  • 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 lb. 7 oz. (5-1/4 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed
  • 1-1/4 tsp. table salt or 2 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 large egg

For shaping and baking

  • Vegetable oil spray
  • 1 large egg
  • Poppy or sesame seeds for garnish (optional)

Make the dough

In a small saucepan, heat the milk until lukewarm (about 95°F). Remove from the heat and whisk in the yeast until it dissolves. Add the oil and butter—the butter may begin to melt, but it’s OK if it doesn’t melt completely—and then whisk in the sugar. Let rest until the yeast just begins to float to the surface, about 5 minutes.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl), combine the flour, salt, and egg. Add the yeast mixture and mix on low speed (or with a large spoon) until a coarse ball of dough forms, about 1 minute. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed (or knead by hand on a lightly oiled work surface) until the dough feels soft, supple, and pliable, about 3 minutes; it should feel tacky to the touch, but not sticky, and pull away from your finger when poked instead of sticking to it. If the dough is too sticky, add 1 Tbs. flour at a time, kneading to incorporate. If it’s stiff, knead in 1 Tbs. of milk at a time.

Rub a little vegetable oil on a work surface to create an 8-inch circle and put the dough on this spot. Stretch and fold the dough over itself from all four sides to the center, crimping it where the folded ends meet, to form it into a tight, round ball.

Put the dough seam side down in a lightly oiled bowl that’s twice the size of the dough. Tightly cover with plastic wrap. Let sit at room temperature until doubled in size, about 90 minutes.

Shape the rolls

Tip: Need help shaping your rolls? Check out our step-by-step guide on how to shape knotted dinner rolls.

Line two 13x18-inch rimmed baking sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners and lightly mist them with vegetable oil spray.

Using a bench knife, divide the dough into eighteen pieces (about 2-1/4 oz. each).

With your hands, roll one piece into a 12-inch-long rope. If the dough starts to stick, mist your work surface lightly with vegetable oil spray or wipe it with a damp towel. Don’t use flour.

Wrap the dough around your fingers into a loose knot; there should be about 2 inches of dough free at each end. Wrap the left end of the dough up and over the loop. Wrap the right end down and under the loop. Lightly squeeze the two ends of dough together in the center to secure them.

Gently squeeze the whole piece of dough into a nice rounded shape. Put the roll, pretty side up, on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough. Mist the top of the rolls with vegetable oil spray and cover loosely with plastic wrap.

Let the rolls sit at room temperature or refrigerated until they just begin to swell, 30 minutes to 1 hour for room-temperature dough, 1 to 1-1/2 hours for refrigerated dough.

Bake the rolls

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. If using a convection oven, heat it to 375°F; if using a conventional oven, heat it to 400°F.

Thoroughly whisk the egg with 1 Tbs. water and brush all over each roll. Sprinkle poppy or sesame seeds (if using) on the rolls.

While the oven heats, let the rolls continue to rise at room temperature, 20 to 40 minutes. They should be 1-1/2 to 2 times their original size before they go in the oven. (Once in the oven, they will rise about 20 percent more.)

Put the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 6 minutes. Rotate the sheets 180 degrees and swap their placement on the racks. Continue baking until the rolls turn rich golden-brown on top and develop some browning underneath, another 6 to 8 minutes. Let the rolls cool on the sheets or on a cooling rack for 15 minutes before serving.

Make Ahead Tips
You can make the dough up to 4 days ahead. Refrigerate it well wrapped so that it slowly rises to double its size then shape as directed.
nutrition information (per serving):
Calories (kcal): 210; Fat (g): 7; Fat Calories (kcal): 60; Saturated Fat (g): 2; Protein (g): 6; Monounsaturated Fat (g): 2.5; Carbohydrates (g): 30; Polyunsaturated Fat (g): 2; Sodium (mg): 180; Cholesterol (mg): 25; Fiber (g): 1;
photo: Scott Phillips
From Fine Cooking 113 , pp. 60-63
September 1, 2011

I brushed them with the egg wash and made 6 poppy seed, 6 sesame seed, and 6 plain.   They take no time at all and really are just too good to be true!

 


Unusual Meals

Around here, "unusual meals" are more the norm than the exception.  It's great to be able to play and not worry about finicky eaters.  We both can just go for it, knowing that something may not always work as planned, but no matter what, it's only one meal.  Worst case scenario is toss it out and call for pizza.  In all of these years, we've never called for pizza.

So I had taken some Alaskan Cod out of the freezer Thursday night to thaw for a Friday dinner with no clear idea of what it was going to be.  I had a few ideas floating around, breading it with almond meal, making a picatta, but I came across a recipe for making potato pockets and knew I had found my dish!

The recipe I found was a bit convoluted, so while it gave me the idea, the concept I came up with was based more upon a classic Pommes Anna.

Using my trusty mandoline, I thin-sliced potatoes and layered them in 6" skillets. I then thin-sliced carrots and added a layer atop the potatoes, drizzled them with butter and placed them on the stove over medium heat.  I added the cod fillets, sprinkled them with salt, pepper, and just a wee bit of French herbs, and added another layer of potatoes.  I drizzled a bit more butter over the tops, covered them and placed them in a 400° oven for about 20 minutes.

Oh my goodness gracious!  These came out great!  The potatoes were crunchy-crispy tender, the carrots, perfectly cooked, and the fish perfectly tender and flaky.  Who knew a carrot, a potato, and a piece of fish could come together so well in one pan?

Of course, there was homemade bread to go along with it...

And last night, I had a rope of sweet Italian sausage I wanted to do something different with.  I came up with a baked-in-the-oven Italian Sausage Paella.

I chopped a medium yellow onion and sauteed it in a bit of olive oil.  I added about 3/4 pound of Italian sausage that I took out of the casing.  When it was fairly well cooked, I added a cup of arborio rice and stirred it around.

Next went in a half-cup of white wine.  I scraped up all the good bits in the pan and added a jar of artichoke and red pepper tapenade.  Into that went 2 cups of beef broth.  i stirred it all together, covered it, and placed it into a 375° oven for 20 minutes.

I pulled it out of the oven and topped it with a sliced non-Florida tomato and a handful of shredded cheese.  Back into the oven it went for another 5 minutes.

Another winner! Creamy rice, sausage, tomatoes, red peppers... cheese...  The flavors all came together really well in another non-traditional way.

Today I'm cleaning out the freezer and reclaiming tupperware.  I had 3 containers of turkey stock and 1 turkey gravy that are now simmering to become turkey soup.  There was also plenty of turkey meat and other odds and ends.

It's gonna be good.

I'm also trying my hand at some knotted egg rolls.  I haven't made them in years - and years.  If they come out well I may make them for Easter.


The BLTA Cheese Burger

That's a Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato, Avocado, and Colby Jack Burger.  With mayonnaise, ketchup, and pickles.

One of the most perfect food-combinations on the planet.

I usually have at least an inkling of an idea in the morning of what I'm cooking for dinner, but this morning I was a blank.  And about midway through the day - with the weather approaching 70° - burgers and fries seemed to be just the thing.  And ripe avocado, hot-house tomatoes from New York - no Florida tomatoes in this house - and bacon and lettuce and ... and ...

I really love an over-the-top burger.  A 6+ napkin monstrosity that is so messy I need a shower after eating it.  Heaven.

To even begin to eat this thing tonight, I had to cut it in half.  And once you pick up a half, you're committed.  There's no putting it down.  It's a roll-up-the-sleeves-elbows-on-the-table-hunched-over-the-plate-slip-sliding dining experience.  Miss Manners would frown - until she took her first bite!

Here's to warm weather!

 

 

 


Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes

Grilled steaks are good.  Broccoli rabe is good. Twice-baked sweet potatoes are outstanding!

The steaks and the broccoli rabe were planned for dinner tonight, but I was originally thinking baked russet potatoes. And then I saw that one, rather large sweet potato in the basket.  An idea started formulating!

A quick look in the 'fridge confirmed we still had a bit of Boursin.  There was a package of diced pancetta in the freezer.  I was set!  The really fun thing about potatoes is you really can mix just about anything into them.  And you can definitely top a baked potato with anything.  Versatility, thy name is spud!

I baked a single large sweet potato at 400° for about 35 minutes.  When it was done, I pulled it out and sliced it in half.  Meanwhile, into a skillet went 2 cloves of minced garlic, 4 ounces of pancetta, and about a quarter of an onion, finely-diced.  When it was all nicely-cooked, I put it into a bowl and added the innards of that lovely potato.  When it was all mixed, I added about a third of a container of Boursin cheese.  And a dash of salt and pepper.

I mixed it all really well, spooned it back into the potato shells, and baked it, again, for about 10 minutes.

Oh yum! Creamy, chunky, cheesy...  It had it all.

I'm finally realizing that one potato really is enough for the two of us - regardless of how I cook it.  Especially when there's Lemon Meringue Pie for dessert!


Lemon Meringue Pie

For the past few days I've been staring at the cover of the latest Fine Cooking magazine.  A Lemon Meringue Pie with a piled-high meringue.  Today I decided staring was getting me nowhere.  I bought some lemons.

I love a good Lemon Meringue Pie.  I have to admit it has been a while since I made one, though.  Done right, they are a bit time consuming.  But...  I had the time today.

I was a bit intrigued by the recipe because it pretty much stated it was the ultimate.

In reality, it came out beautiful, tasted great, but didn't slice nearly as well as it should have.  I did follow the recipe - and it's one of those way-too-much-minutiae-recipes - and had things at the temperatures proscribed.  Of course, as I'm being critical, Victor is telling me it's excellent, he loves it, the filling is great, crust is flaky... So...  I'll take his word for it.  I can be a bit overly critical of my own cooking now and again,.

 

That is definitely not the cover photo but it did taste good - and that is the important part!  Here is the full recipe.  My only two changes is I used all butter in the crust as I don't use shortening and was out of lard, and I didn't use the gingersnap cookies.

Lemon Meringue Pie

by Carole Walter

Homemade lemon meringue pie can't be beat, but it is notoriously tricky to make. This recipe includes all the secrets for a flaky, crisp crust, a silky but gelled filling, and a billowy meringue that doesn't weep. Serves 8 to 10

For the crust:

  • 6 oz. (1-1/4 cups plus 2 Tbs.) unsifted all-purpose flour
  • 2 tsp. granulated sugar
  • 1/4 tsp. table salt
  • 1/4 tsp. baking powder
  • 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes; more for the plate
  • 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) frozen vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 2 to 4 Tbs. ice water

For the filling:

  • 1-1/4 cups granulated sugar
  • 2 oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cornstarch
  • 1/4 tsp. table salt
  • 5 large egg yolks
  • 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces and softened
  • 1-1/2 Tbs. finely grated and minced lemon zest, plus 1/3 cup strained juice (from 3 medium lemons)
  • 1 oz. (3 Tbs.) finely ground gingersnap cookies

For the meringue:

  • 5 large egg whites, at room temperature
  • 3/4 cup superfine sugar
  • 3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  • 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar

Make the dough:

Combine the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder in a zip-top bag; shake to mix and chill in the freezer for about 30 minutes. Add half of the butter and shortening to the bag and toss to coat with flour. Transfer the mixture to a food processor. Give it four 1-second pulses and then process for 3 to 4 seconds. Add the remaining butter and shortening and pulse again 4 times; then process until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal with some pea-size pieces of butter and shortening, 3 to 4 seconds.

Empty the mixture into a large bowl. Drizzle 1 Tbs. of the ice water around the side of the bowl and use a fork to push the flour mixture from the edges towards the center; repeat with a second tablespoon of ice water. Clusters of dough will form and become larger with each addition of water. After adding 2 Tbs. water, test the dough by pressing a small handful of clusters clusters together and then breaking them apart. If they feel dry and crumble easily, add more water, 1 Tbs. at a time (up to 4 Tbs. total), until the clusters feel moist and bind together.

Gather and press the dough into a ball, flatten it into a 4- to 5-inch disk, and dust with flour. Wrap with plastic and refrigerate until cold but still pliable enough to leave a slight imprint when pressed with a fingertip, about 1 hour.

Shape the crust:

Butter the bottom, sides, and rim of a 9-inch glass pie plate.

On a floured pastry cloth or lightly floured work surface, roll the dough with a floured rolling pin (preferably covered with a rolling pin sleeve) into a 13-inch circle that’s about 1/8 inch thick. Roll the dough around the rolling pin, unroll it over the pie plate, and gently fit it into the plate without stretching. Trim the dough with scissors to a 3/4- to 1-inch overhang. (Reserve the dough scraps, without pressing them into a ball, in case you need to patch the shell later.) Roll the overhang under itself and flatten it slightly to cover the rim of the pie plate completely. Chill for at least 30 minutes before baking.

Bake the crust:

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. Using a fork, lightly prick the bottom and sides of the crust at 1-inch intervals (without going all the way through the crust). Fit a buttered 12-inch piece of aluminum foil over the crust, buttered side down. Fill 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep with dried beans or pie weights—do not overfill.

Bake the crust on a rimmed baking sheet until the edges begin to brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Let stand on a cooling rack for about 30 seconds, and then carefully remove the foil and beans. If the foil doesn’t release easily, don’t force it—bake for a few minutes more and try again. If any holes or tears appear, patch them by placing small pieces of the reserved dough scraps over the holes, let stand for a few seconds, and then gently tap them with your finger until they adhere. Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F and continue to bake the crust until deep golden-brown all over, 16 to 20 minutes more. Cool on a rack for at least 15 minutes. (Keep the oven on.)

Make the filling:

In a heavy-duty 3-quart nonreactive saucepan, whisk together (preferably with a tapered sauce whisk) the sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Whisk in 1/4 cup cold water until the mixture is smooth. Then whisk in another 1-1/4 cups cold water until combined. Cook over medium to medium-low heat, stirring occasionally at first with a heatproof spatula, then continuously as the mixture comes to a boil (you will see a few large bubbles pop), turns glossy, and thickens into a semi-translucent gel, 4 to 6 minutes. Whisk briefly to smooth out the mixture; then reduce the heat to low and cook 1 minute more, gently pulling the mixture from the sides to the center with the spatula to prevent scorching. Remove the pot from the heat.

In a medium bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks. Gently whisk about 1/2 cup of the gel into the egg yolks; repeat with another 1/2 cup gel. Pour the yolk mixture into the pot and gently whisk to combine. Over low to medium-low heat, cook the filling, gently pulling it from the sides to the center with the spatula, until it begins to boil (you will see a few large bubbles pop), 4 to 6 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring as before, until the mixture thickens further(don’t worry if it clumps at this point), about 1 minute more. Remove the pot from the heat and dot the filling with the butter, pushing it under the surface; let stand for a minute to melt. Gently whisk in the lemon juice and zest until smooth.

Sprinkle the ground gingersnaps over the bottom of the pie crust; pour the filling over the crumbs and smooth the top with the spatula. Let cool to room temperature before making the meringue, at least 30 minutes.

Make the meringue:

Bring 1/2 inch of water to a simmer in a pot that will hold the bowl of a stand mixer without letting it touch the water. Reduce the heat to low. Put the egg whites in the bowl off the heat and whisk (preferably with a balloon whisk) until frothy. Add the sugar about 2 Tbs. at a time, whisking for about 5 seconds between additions.

Put the bowl over the pot and whisk gently but constantly (you are not trying to incorporate air, but to keep the whites moving so they don’t cook) until the whites are very warm to the touch (they will register 115°F to 120°F on an instant-read thermometer) and the sugar is thoroughly dissolved (lift a ribbon of whites from the bowl with the whisk and rub the whites between your fingertips—you should feel no grit), 2 to 4 minutes.

Add the vanilla and cream of tartar, transfer the bowl to the stand mixer, fit with the whisk attachment, and beat, gradually increasing the speed from low to medium high over the course of 1 minute, until the egg whites form thick, glossy medium-firm peaks (they should hold their shape but curl at their tips), 3 to 5 minutes total.

Using a soup spoon, drop some of the meringue in mounds in a ring around the edge of the filling. With the back of the spoon, gently spread the dollops of meringue over the entire surface of the filling and all the way to the crust’s edge. It is essential that all of the filling be completely covered by the meringue, without any air pockets, and that the edge of the meringue be anchored to the rim of the crust. Mound the remaining meringue on top and press with the back of the spoon to eliminate any air pockets without deflating the meringue. Make decorative peaks with the back of the spoon.

Bake the pie until the meringue peaks brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Cool the pie on a rack away from drafts to prevent the meringue from shrinking. Let stand at least 1 hour before serving.

To slice, rinse a sharp, thin-bladed knife in hot water and shake off the excess before making each cut.

Make Ahead Tips

  • Lemon meringue pie is best eaten the day it’s made, but leftovers will keep, loosely tented with aluminum foil and refrigerated, for up to 3 days. Never cover with plastic wrap—too much condensation will form under the wrapping. Do not freeze.
  • The disk of pie dough will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or 3 months in the freezer. Thaw frozen dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours; then let stand at room temperature until pliable.

nutrition information (per serving):
Calories (kcal): 430; Fat (g): 18; Fat Calories (kcal): 160; Saturated Fat (g): 8; Protein (g): 5; Monounsaturated Fat (g): 5; Carbohydrates (g): 63; Polyunsaturated Fat (g): 2; Sodium (mg): 180; Cholesterol (mg): 115; Fiber (g): 1;
photo: Scott Phillips
From Fine Cooking 116 , pp. 78-83
March 1, 2012

 

 


Beef and Mushroom Crêpes

One of my favorite restaurants back in San Francisco was a place called CREPEVINE.  It was on 9th and Irving - a block from my house - and just funky enough.  Great food, great atmosphere, excellent staff... And reasonably priced.  They have grown over the years but the focus is still on really good, fun food.

So it was with great joy that I received the latest copy of Fine Cooking magazine and see a whole section on crêpes.  I looked at the recipes but mentally went back to Irving Street and started plotting a recipe.

One recipe that caught my eye in the magazine was for a chicken cacciatore crêpe with a cheese sauce.  Looked really good - but I had taken cubed steak out of the freezer last night thinking I'd do a swiss steak of sorts for dinner.  In just a few minutes the swiss steak morphed into crêpes with a chopped steak and mushroom filling and a mushroom sauce.

I got to work.

I sauteed onion and garlic then added chopped carrots, and chopped mushrooms to the pan.  I cooked it all down and added a splash of red wine and some salt and pepper.  When the wine cooked down, I put everything into a bowl.  Next - in the same pan - I cooked off the beef that I had chopped into pretty small pieces.  When it was cooked, I added some beef broth. cooked it down a bit, and then thickened it with a bit of cornstarch.  I then mixed it all in with the vegetables and set it aside while I made the crêpes.

These really are easy to make.  I should make them more often.

My complaint with this magazine - and a lot of cooking magazines , lately - is putting measurements in as weights.  I know that weighing is a much more precise measurement, but, c'mon... they give half the measurements in weight, half in volume, and then give you a range with an ingredient, telling you that you're going to probably have to tweak something, anyway.  So much for their precision.  It's pretentious and annoying.  It also annoys me when the recipes are overly-detailed.  Yes, I realize that many folks are not as confident in the kitchen as others, but I don't need to be told I have to use a folded paper towel to butter my crêpe pan.  Really.

But I digress...

Basic Brown-Butter Crêpes Recipe

Fine Cooking Magazine
Yields about fourteen 8-inch crêpes

  • 3-1/2 oz. (7 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more softened for the pan
  • 1-3/4 cups whole milk; more as needed
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  • 6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

Tip: As with pancakes, the first crêpe you make is usually a flop, so count on sacrificing it as you experiment with the heat of the burner and the amount of butter in the pan.

In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, cook the butter over medium heat, swirling it every few seconds, until melted and the milk solids at the bottom of the pan turn golden-brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Immediately pour the brown butter into a small bowl and let cool almost to room temperature.

Combine the milk, eggs, and salt in a blender. Blend for a few seconds to combine. Add the flour and blend until very smooth, about 20 seconds. Add the brown butter and blend for another 10 seconds.

Pour the batter into a large bowl and let rest for at least 5 minutes and up to 24 hours. (If resting for more than 30 minutes, cover and refrigerate.)

When ready to cook the crêpes, check the batter; it should be as thick as heavy cream, not as thick as pancake batter. If it feels too thick, whisk in up to 1/2 cup more milk.

Heat a crêpe pan with an 8-inch base or a 10-inch nonstick skillet with an 8-inch base over medium-high heat until it’s hot enough for a drop of water to sizzle. Using a folded paper towel, grease the pan with about 1/4 tsp. butter. The butter should sizzle upon contact but not instantly turn brown. If it does, reduce the heat as necessary.

Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan while simultaneously lifting the pan from the heat and tilting and turning it in all directions so the batter spreads evenly across the bottom in a thin circle. If the crêpe has any holes in it, quickly add a few drops of batter to fill them in.

Cook until the edges begin to dry and lift from the sides of the pan and the bottom is nicely browned (lift up an edge with a small silicone spatula or your fingers to check), about 1 minute. Use the spatula or your fingers to flip the crêpe over. Cook until the second side is browned, about 20 seconds more.

Slide the crêpe from the pan onto a large plate or cooling rack. Repeat with the remaining batter, adjusting the heat and spreading more butter in the pan every two or three crêpes, or whenever the pan begins to look a bit dry. You can stack the crêpes on the plate as they’re done; they won’t stick. The crêpes will soften as they cool.

I made a quick mushroom sauce and poured it over them and baked them at 350° for about 20 minutes.

They were really good.  REALLY good.

And coming up is Lemon Meringue Pie from the same issue!