All-Day Dining with Linda and David

Hors d'Oeuvres started at 2pm.  Cheesecake was served at 7pm.

We ate all day.

It's pretty much what yer supposed to do when you get together with good friends.  And we all believe in following the rules when it suits our purpose.

This has been a tradition since we moved back here 10 years ago.  Victor has known Linda since childhood.  She was our real estate agent when we bought our house.  David was our mortgage broker.

Good friends with a lot of history.  Friends you can say anything to without having to filter.

And friends who like to eat!

We started off with hors d'oeuvres.  Just three, because we didn't want to spoil our dinner.

First off was a puff pastry dish Victor came up with based on something Ina Garten makes.  She does a puff pastry, ham and cheese.  Victor took it to a whole new level.

Puff Pastry with Pancetta and Dates

  • 2 sheets puff pastry
  • 1/3 cup sun-dried tomato pesto
  • 4 oz thin-sliced pancetta
  • 1 cup shredded fontina cheese
  • 1 cup chopped dates

Roll puff pastry to fit sheet pan - 10" x 16" or so.  Brush with sun-dried tomato pesto, them layer pancetta, cheese, and dates.

Roll second sheet of puff pastry and place on top.  Crimp edges and brush with egg.  Cut slits to allow steam to escape.

Bake in a preheated 450° oven about 10 minutes or until golden brown.

These were definitely a hit.  They were easy to prepare and the fillings can be switched out a million and one ways!

Definitely a keeper.

I decided we needed to do at least one deep-fried hors d'oeuvre because...  well...  we do have that deep fryer!  I went with a crab fritter because I just couldn't think of anything else savory that I wanted to do.  This was a totally wing-it recipe from the fritter to the dipping sauce, but it turned out great.  The test fritters I made were still a bit doughy in the center so I really was caredul about the size.  1 tablespoon cooked up perfectly!

Crab and Green Chile Fritters

  • 8 oz crab
  • 1 4 oz can green chilies
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk
  • 1 egg
  • 1 cup self-rising flour
  • 2 tbsp chopped chives
  • salt and pepper

Mix crab with chiles, buttermilk, chives, and egg.  Add a bit of salt and pepper, to taste.  Add enough flour to make a moderately-stiff dough.

Drop tablespoon-sized balls into hot oil and cook until well browned.

Serve with dipping sauce.

For a dipping sauce I decided to go sweet and spicy.

We had homemade cranberry sauce in the fridge, apricot cookie filling in the fridge, and chipotles in adobo in the fridge.

I made a cranberry apricot chipotle dipping sauce!

Cranberry Apricot Chipotle Dipping Sauce

  • 1 cup cranberry sauce
  • 1/3 cup apricot preserves
  • 1 chipotle in adobo, chopped (or to taste)

Place ingredients in small saucepan.  Heat.  Mix briefly with immersion blender to blend and to break down larger berries or apricot pieces.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

And finally, we had bruschetta.

I love bruschetta in any and all its various incarnations.

Anything on toasted baguette with cheese is my idea of good.  This was mere open-a-jar.

We had a jar of Harry and Davids Charred Pineapple with Candied Peppers on the shelf for quite a while.  Today it was spooned onto baguette slices, topped with cream cheese, and placed under the broiler for a couple of minutes.

This was so simple and a total hit.

By 4:30pm, it was getting time to sit down to dinner.

We started off with a simple Calabrese Salad.

Red and Green leaf lettuce, tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil.

I drizzled the whole thing with that nice, expensive olive oil Nick gave us for Christmas and some 15 year old balsamic.  And a pinch of salt and pepper.  It didn't need anything else.

And then it wan on to the main attraction:

Handmade pasta with a lobster sauce.

Oh yes, you read that right.  Handmade pasta with a lobster sauce.

Oh yes.

Victor made the pasta from a recipe he saw on Ciao Italia with MaryAnn Esposito. She serves the pasta with a clam and mussel sauce, but Victor had a better idea.  Lobster.

Scialatielli

  • 1 extra large egg
  • 1/3 to 1/2 cup milk
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 1/2 cups flour
  • 1 tablespoon grated Pecorino cheese
  • 2 tablespoons minced basil or parsley leaves

Directions

Place egg, 1/3 cup milk, olive oil and salt in bowl of food processor and whirl until smooth. Add flour and cheese and pulse until mixture is grainy looking. Add parsley and pulse just until dough begins to leave the sides of bowl. If dough is too dry, add a little of the remaining milk until you can pinch a piece of dough between your fingers and it does not crumble.

Transfer dough to a floured surface and knead into a smooth ball. Place a bowl upside down over the dough and allow to rest for 30 minutes to relax the gluten and make it easier to roll.

Divide the dough into quarters and keep three covered while working the first piece. Flatten the dough to a four inch wide piece. Place it through the rollers of a hand crank pasta machine set to the fattest setting (#1). Set the rollers to the next fattest setting down (#2) and run the dough through again.

Use a small knife to cut 1/8 inch wide strips and place the strips on a clean towel. Repeat with the remaining dough.

It made a wonderful and delicious pasta dish, but we think next time we make it, we'll (that's *we* as in *Victor*) roll it a bit thinner.  It's supposed to be a thick pasta, but our tastes tend to go for thinner.

The sauce was a variation on a La Cucina theme...

Aragosta al Limone

  • Chunks of Lobster Tail
  • 4 Large Egg Yolks
  • 2 Lemons
  • ½ cup plus 2 tbls Grana Padano grated plus more for sprinkling
  • ½ tsp freshly ground pepper
  • ½ cup plus 2 tbls heavy cream
  • 1/3 cup plus 1 tbls whole milk
  • 3 tbls finely chopped flat leaf parsley
  • 2 tbls finely chopped chives

Sauté lobster chunks till just done, about 3 minutes or opaque. (Don’t over cook)

Place egg yolks in a large bowl. Grate the zest of 1 lemon into the bowl. Add cheese and pepper, whisk to combine, then whisk in the cream, milk, parsley, chives and a generous pinch of salt.

When the pasta is al dente, drain and return to the pot. Immediately add the egg mixture and lobster meat then toss together to combine. Serve immediately with more Grana Padano.

It was gooder than good.  It was great watching both Linda and David go back for more.  It was everything it could be and more.

And then, finally, it was time for dessert.

Linda is just a bit of a chocaholic, so we decided a cheesecake with a chocolate crust was in order.  And this morning, I decided the cheesecake needed a chocolate ganache to cover it.

The ganache was pure over-the-top decadence.  I loved every calorie of it!

I made my favorite "Worlds Greatest Strawberry Cheesecake" except I didn't use the strawberries...

World's Greatest Cheesecake with Chocolate Ganache

The Crust:

  • 3/4 cups walnuts, coarsely ground
  • 3/4 cup chocolate cookie crumbs
  • 1 3 oz Valrhona chocolate bar
  • 3 1/2 tbsp butter, melted

The Filling:

  • 4 pkgs cream cheese, room temperature
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 1/4 cups sugar
  • 1 tbsp vanilla extract
  • 1/4 cup whipping cream

The Topping:

  • 16 oz sour cream
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

The Ganache:

  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 12 oz bittersweet chocolate
  • 1 tbsp vanilla

Putting it together: Preheat oven to 350º.  Mix crust ingredients and press evenly into bottom of 10″ springform pan.  Set aside.

Cream the cheese until light and fluffy.  Mix in eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add sugar, vanilla, and whipping cream, mixing until smooth and light. Pour into pan and bake 60 – 70 minutes. Remove from oven and cool about 15 minutes.  Keep oven on.

Mix topping ingredients and spread onto top of cheesecake to within about 1/2 inch from edge.  Return to oven and bake about 7 more minutes.  Cool completely, cover, and refrigerate at least 24 hours (2-3 days is best.)

On day you’re going to serve, make ganache.  Heat cream.  Remove from heat and stir in grated chocolate.  Stir until smooth.  Add vanilla.

Remove cake from pan.  Spread ganache over cake.  Refrigerate until ready to serve.

It really was a stellar day.  And while we did eat a lot, at least it was spread out over 5 hours.

Our next feast with them is tentatively scheduled for July at their house to celebrate my and Linda's birthdays.

I can't wait.

They feed us the same way.


Tagliatelle al Burro al Tartufo

We have pretty much run out of the La Cucina Pasta Issue recipes.  Tonight, Victor made one of their pastas, but the sauce was pure Victor.

In his TV cooking-show-watching, he saw a couple of different pasta recipes with truffles.  One was a Wolfgang Puck dish with billion-dollar-a-pound white truffles.  Another was Ina - the Barefoot Contessa - making a pasta butter or something.

So...

Tagliatelle al Burro al Tartufo  -  Tagliatelle with Truffle Butter - was born.

The sauce is definitely not for the faint of heart, but I tell ya...  if ya have to go, this is the way to do it - with a smile on your face.

And we have to thank Ann and Julie for letting us know that it was okay to have real, fresh truffles in the house in the first place.  They brought us truffles last year when they visited and after using them up, decided I really could buy one myself now and again.

They really are a very special treat!

Tagliatelle al Burro al Tartufo

Tagliatelle Fresche

Ingredients

  • 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • Coarse sea salt

Instructions

On a clean work surface, mound flour and form a well in the center. Add eggs and egg yolks to the well. Using a fork, gently break up yolks and slowly incorporate flour from inside rim of well. Continue until liquid is absorbed, then knead for 10 minutes. Wrap dough tightly in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.
Divide dough into 3 pieces. Cover 2 pieces with plastic wrap. Flatten remaining dough piece so that it will fit through the rollers of a pasta machine.

Set rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting, then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times, folding and turning pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.
Roll pasta through machine, decreasing the setting, one notch at a time (do not fold or turn pasta), until pasta sheet is scant 1/16 inch thick.

Cut sheet in half widthwise; dust both sides of sheets with flour. Layer sheets between floured pieces of parchment or wax paper. Cover with paper and repeat with remaining dough.

With the short end of 1 pasta sheet facing you, loosely fold up sheet, folding sheet over two or three times from short ends toward the center. With a large chefs knife, cut folded sheet into ribbons, a scant 1/4 inch wide. Unroll strips and lightly dust with flour; spread on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with remaining pasta sheets.

To cook the tagliatelle, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain pasta, transfer to a large serving bowl and toss with sauce.

In the meantime, in a large skillet:

Sauce

  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  • 7 oz truffle butter

Truffle butter

  • 1 small, fresh truffle
  • 7 oz softened butter

Grate the truffle with a fine plane and in a mixer (or by hand) whip the truffle and butter together. You can do this a day ahead and refrigerate, covered.

While the pasta is cooking, add the heavy cream to the skillet and bring to just a simmer.  Add the butter and let it melt into the cream. Remove from heat and immediately add the drained pasta to the skillet with the grated cheese, reserving some cheese for topping. Serve immediately.

Victor only used about half of the truffle butter.  It was more than adequate.

And better markets will probably have truffle butter already made, if you're so inclined.


Malloreddus with Victor's Homemade Sauce

Tonight's Monday Pasta comes half-way from La Cucina Italiana magazine.  The pasta is from the magazine, but the sauce is pure Victor.

He was looking in the magazine for recipes when I asked in my most-pleading voice if he would make his red sauce tonight.  The pasta was almost secondary.  I was craving the red sauce.

And to make it even better, we had pork ribs in the freezer that would become fall-off-the-bone-tender after simmering in the sauce all day.  And they did.

There's no recipe** for the sauce.  It just is.  There are as many variations of this simple sauce as there are Italian households out there.  Everyone's is the best - except Victor's really is!

**EDITED TO ADD** Victor's Spaghetti Sauce.  He finally wrote it down.

The semolina pasta has substance to it.  It works well shaped into the malloreddus, but would work equally well as a linguine or papardelle.

This was perfect.  Exactly what I was hoping for.

My stomach is smiling.

Malloreddus

  • Sea Salt
  • 1 ¼ cups semolina flour
  • ¾ cup unbleached all purpose flour
  • Extra virgin olive oil

Gnocchi board or a table fork

Dissolve 1 tsp salt in ¾ cup warm water. In a large bowl whisk together semolina and all purpose flour; mound and form a well in the center.

Add water mixture and 2 tsp olive oil to the well. Using your hand or a fork, slowly incorporate flour from inside the rim of the well. Continue until liquid is absorbed, then knead in bowl until dough forms a complete mass (dough will be slightly sticky).

Transfer dough to a well floured work surface and knead, dusting with a bit more flour as needed just to keep dough from sticking to your hands, for 5 minutes. Wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

Break off about 1/8 of the dough; tightly rewrap remaining dough. Roll dough into ½ inch cylinder, and cut into ¼ inch thick pieces. Pressing with your thumb, roll each piece on a gnocchi board (or down the back of a fork) to give it the characteristic ridges, and put on a floured baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough.

To cook fresh Malloreddus, bring a large pot of salted water to a bill. Add pasta and cook until tender, about 6 minutes after water returns to a boil. Drain, transfer to a large serving bowl and immediately toss with sauce and serve.


Tagliatelle Fresche al Prosciutto Crudo

The fabulous Monday Pasta continues.

Tonight we had another hand-made pasta.  Tagliatelle.  Feather-light tagliatelle.  Perfect ribbons of silkiness...

I'm in love.

Victor has mastered the art of pasta-making.  Totally and completely.

Personally, I think everyone needs to go out and buy a pasta roller.  You can't buy pasta like this.  You just can't.

Tagliatelle

Serves 4

Making fresh pasta is easier and quicker than you may think, and the results are well worth the extra effort. Tender and supple, this hand-cut tagliatelle readily absorbs the flavors of the sauce it's tossed with.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • Coarse sea salt

Instructions

On a clean work surface, mound flour and form a well in the center. Add eggs and egg yolks to the well. Using a fork, gently break up yolks and slowly incorporate flour from inside rim of well. Continue until liquid is absorbed, then knead for 10 minutes. Wrap dough tightly in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.
Divide dough into 3 pieces. Cover 2 pieces with plastic wrap. Flatten remaining dough piece so that it will fit through the rollers of a pasta machine.

Set rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting, then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times, folding and turning pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.
Roll pasta through machine, decreasing the setting, one notch at a time (do not fold or turn pasta), until pasta sheet is scant 1/16 inch thick.

Cut sheet in half widthwise; dust both sides of sheets with flour. Layer sheets between floured pieces of parchment or wax paper. Cover with paper and repeat with remaining dough.

With the short end of 1 pasta sheet facing you, loosely fold up sheet, folding sheet over two or three times from short ends toward the center. With a large chefs knife, cut folded sheet into ribbons, a scant 1/4 inch wide. Unroll strips and lightly dust with flour; spread on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with remaining pasta sheets.

To cook the tagliatelle, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain pasta, transfer to a large serving bowl and toss with sauce.

Three ingredients.  That's it.  Three ingredients.  No gums, stabilizers, or dough conditioners.  Flour, eggs, and salt.

The sauce is the same.

The recipe tonight called for prosciutto, shallots, and cheese.  Three ingredients.  Four if you count a couple tablespoons of wine.  Simple, basic, and exploding with flavor.

I really love complex dishes where a score of ingredients compete and blend.  But there is another side of me that really loves the simplicity of a dish - where there are three ingredients and I taste each one individually and collectively.

Tonight's pasta was just that.  Each ingredient stood out, yet complimented and balanced the others.

Having grown up with - and cooked - Americanized versions of Southern Italian food, I'm really enjoying the more authentic and simpler foods Italy has to offer.  A couple of good ingredients is all it takes.

Tagliatelle Fresche al Prosciutto Crudo

4 servings

Ingredients

  • Fine sea salt
  • 5 ounces 1/8-inch-thick slices prosciutto
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced shallot (1 to 2 large)
  • 2 tablespoons dry white wine
  • 14 ounces fresh tagliatelle
  • 3/4 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Instructions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, cut fat from prosciutto; finely chop fat. Cut remaining prosciutto into
1/4-inch cubes. Combine prosciutto fat and butter in a large nonstick skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add shallot and cook for 1 minute more. Add cubed prosciutto and cook for 1 minute more, then add wine and ¼ cup of the boiling water; cook until liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes, then remove from heat.

Add pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente (about 3 minutes for fresh pasta). Reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking liquid, drain and immediately transfer to a large bowl.

Return skillet with prosciutto to medium-low heat. Add cheese and stir to combine. Immediately add contents of skillet and 1 tablespoon of the pasta cooking liquid to pasta; toss to combine. Add more pasta cooking liquid to moisten, if desired. Serve immediately.

And for dessert, I made a Spongata...


Cheese Gnocchi

Sunday Dinner.

A tradition in many cultures.  Lots of family, lots of food, lots of fun.  We had two out of three, today.  Lots of food, lots of fun - but just a little family.  Victor's mom, brother and sister-in-law.

We decided we'd do the Monday Pasta today.  Sunday Dinner... Italians...  It seemed the right thing to do.

Tonight's dish was Ricotta Gnocchi.  Lighter than their potato cousins, they're also more flavorful.  They work equally well with a red sauce, a cream sauce, or a simple butter sauce.

Ricotta Gnocchi

  • 1 lb ricotta cheese
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 teaspoons pepper
  • 2 teaspoons garlic powder
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour, or as needed
  1. Stir together the ricotta cheese, eggs, Parmesan Cheese, salt, pepper, and garlic powder in a large bowl until evenly combined. Mix in 1 cup of flour. Add additional flour if needed to form a soft dough.
  2. Divide the dough into 3 or 4 pieces, and roll into 1/2-inch-thick ropes on a floured surface. Cut each rope into 1-inch pieces, and place on a lightly floured baking sheet. Place in the refrigerator until ready to use.
  3. While sauce is simmering, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Boil the gnocchi until they float to the surface, 1 to 2 minutes, then drain.
  4. Place gnocchi into a serving bowl, and spoon sauce over top.

They are actually pretty easy to make.  I've made them many times in the past rolling the little gnocchi off the tines of a fork.  The gnocchi board really makes it easier, although the fork tines are not difficult by any means.

You definitely want a soft dough to begin with.  Work it just enough to get everything mixed together, and although the recipe doesn't call for it, wrapping it and letting it rest for about 20 minutes or so will help bring it together and allow the flour to absorb the liquids.

And then it just becomes the rolling, cutting, and forming process.

[flowplayer src='https://tjrecipes.com/media/gnocchi.mp4']

The recipe makes a goodly amount.  We got two sheet pans - one went into the freezer!

I made another loaf of bread, and Marie brought over some great blondie-brownies.  And we had some of the Bananas Foster Bread from last night.

We ate really well.

A good time was had by all, the Giants beat the Padres, and life is good!


Tagliatelle con Broccolo Romanesco

It is actually becoming difficult to describe how wonderful and delicious our Monday Pasta is...  Me.  The guy who can talk all day - is having trouble coming up with words to describe light-as-a-feather hand-made pasta with a couple of simple ingredients.

But I tell ya, I'm gonna have fun trying!

What started out as a bit of a lark has turned into a real learning experience for both of us.  We both grew up on the heavy southern Italian red sauce - with lots of beef and pork, meatballs and sausages.  I absolutely love it.  But all of a sudden, there are a bazillion ways to dress pasta - with just a couple of ingredients.  Now, restraint has never been a word I would say, see, or hear in a kitchen, but these dishes are all about restraint.  They're about a couple of ingredients standing on their own.

Tonight's pasta was a prime example.  Cauliflower, anchovies, dried chiles, a garlic clove, and a can of tomatoes.  I could taste every flavor, yet not one overpowered another.  The balance was unbelievable and another perfect learning experience for the king of culinary excess.

And Victor has the pasta-making down to a science.  It's uncanny what he is able to do with a couple of eggs and a cup of flour.  Unbelievable.

So here's another fantastic Monday Night Pasta Dish... With more to come!

Tagliatelle con Broccolo Romanesco

Tagliatelle with Romanesco Cauliflower and spicy tomato sauce

  • 2 ½ lbs cauliflower (preferably Romanesco)
  • 1 large garlic clove, peeled
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 flat anchovy fillets
  • ½ tsp dried red pepper flakes (or more to taste)
  • 1 28 oz. can whole plum tomatoes in juice
  • 1 lb Tagliatelle or other long pasta
  • ½ cup flat leaf parsley finely chopped

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cut cauliflower into 1 inch wide florets. Cook florets in the boiling water until tender, about 5 minutes. Reserve water, transfer cauliflower to a colander to drain, then rinse under cold water to stop cooking.

In a large, high sided skillet with a lid, combine garlic, oil, anchovies and pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally for 2 minutes.

Add tomatoes and juices (I break up the tomatoes), bring to a simmer then add cauliflower. Gently simmer sauce, covered, stirring once or twice for about 20 minutes or until sauce starts to thicken a bit. Meanwhile return the water to a boil.

Five minutes before sauce is ready, cook pasta in the boiling water until al dente. Drain pasta and transfer to a large service bowl. Immediately add sauce and parsley, toss to combine. Serve immediately with grated Pecorino Romano cheese.

The pasta is a total key-player in these dishes.  If you can make it, all the better.  if you can't, at least get the best fresh pasta you can find.  And if you can't get fresh, the best packaged.  And if the best packaged is a store-brand, well... go for it, anyway!

Tagliatelle

  • 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • Coarse sea salt

Special equipment: parchment or waxed paper

Instructions

On a clean work surface, mound flour and form a well in the center. Add eggs and egg yolks to the well. Using a fork, gently break up yolks and slowly incorporate flour from inside rim of well. Continue until liquid is absorbed, then knead for 10 minutes. Wrap dough tightly in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.

Divide dough into 3 pieces. Cover 2 pieces with plastic wrap. Flatten remaining dough piece so that it will fit through the rollers of a pasta machine.

Set rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting, then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times, folding and turning pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.

Roll pasta through machine, decreasing the setting, one notch at a time (do not fold or turn pasta), until pasta sheet is scant 1/16 inch thick.

Cut sheet in half widthwise; dust both sides of sheets with flour. Layer sheets between floured pieces of parchment or wax paper. Cover with paper and repeat with remaining dough.

With the short end of 1 pasta sheet facing you, loosely fold up sheet, folding sheet over two or three times from short ends toward the center. With a large chefs knife, cut folded sheet into ribbons, a scant 1/4 inch wide. Unroll strips and lightly dust with flour; spread on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with remaining pasta sheets.

To cook the tagliatelle, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain pasta, transfer to a large serving bowl and toss with sauce. (If serving with Ragu all Bolognese, use 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups of the sauce.)

It's worth buying a pasta roller.  Really.

Oh... and just as an aside...  I actually went out and purchased 2 cans of San Marzano canned tomatoes.  DOP Italy, the whole bit.  I'm going to play heretic here, but neither of us saw them as worth three times more than our normal canned store-brand plums.  Yes, they're good, but our fresh-from-the-garden plums are better.


Malloreddus con Salsiccia

It is so good to be me.

I know, I know...  It's just not right to brag or gloat or any of that sort of stuff, but damn! it's good to be me!  My stomach is smiling from here to the moon and back!

Victor was in the kitchen once again, working his way through the Pasta Issue of La Cucina Italiana.  This weeks gastronomic celebration was Malloreddus con Salsiccia, or Malloreddus with Sausage.

Malloreddus is a semolina pasta from Sardinia.  Sardinia, was occupied for several centuries by the Arabs after the fall of the Roman Empire, and one of the fun culinary differences from other parts of Italy is the locals acquired a taste for saffron.  It is often used both in the dough and in the accompanying sauce.

Malloreddus in not gnocchi, although they share a similar shape.  They have very different ingredients, textures, and flavors.

Malloreddus

  • Sea Salt
  • 1 ¼ cups semolina flour
  • ¾ cup unbleached all purpose flour
  • Extra virgin olive oil

Gnocchi board or a table fork

Dissolve 1 tsp salt in ¾ cup warm water. In a large bowl whisk together semolina and all purpose flour; mound and form a well in the center.

Add water mixture and 2 tsp olive oil to the well. Using your hand or a fork, slowly incorporate flour from inside the rim of the well. Continue until liquid is absorbed, then knead in bowl until dough forms a complete mass (dough will be slightly sticky).

Transfer dough to a well floured work surface and knead, dusting with a bit more flour as needed just to keep dough from sticking to your hands, for 5 minutes. Wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

Break off about 1/8 of the dough; tightly rewrap remaining dough. Roll dough into ½ inch cylinder, and cut into ¼ inch thick pieces. Pressing with your thumb, roll each piece on a gnocchi board (or down the back of a fork) to give it the characteristic ridges, and put on a floured baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough.

To cook fresh Malloreddus, bring a large pot of salted water to a bill. Add pasta and cook until tender, about 6 minutes after water returns to a boil. Drain, transfer to a large serving bowl and immediately toss with sauce and serve.

This is less than half of the pasta.  The rest went into the freezer!

Malloreddus con salsiccia – Malloreddus with sausage.

  • 1 lbs sweet or hot Italian sausage
  • Heaping 1/8 tsp crushed saffron threads
  • 3 tbls extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 (28 oz. can) whole peeled tomatoes with juices.
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • Sea Salt
  • 1 lbs fresh Malloreddus or dried from the store
  • ½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese plus more for serving

Remove sausage from casing, break meat apart a bit. Combine saffron and ¼ cup water in a small bowl

In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium high heat, add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened. 5 to 6 minutes. Add sausage, and cook, breaking meat apart with a wooden spoon for 5 minutes. Add tomatoes with juices, add wine, cook, breaking up tomatoes for 5 minutes. (Sometimes dump the tomatoes and juice in a large bowl and roughly break them up with my hands)

Add saffron mixture and ¼ tsp salt. Gently simmer sauce until thickened and flavorful, 45 to 50, minutes over medium heat. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente (about 6 minutes for fresh Malloreddus). Meanwhile, gently warm sauce. When pasta is al dente, drain, transfer to a large bowl, immediately add sauce and toss to combine. Add cheese and toss once more. Serve immediately with extra cheese.

I made a loaf of Pane Pugliese from dough I had frozen a couple of weeks ago.  It was the perfect accompanyment to the perfect pasta dish.

While there are still lots of recipes in the magazine, we just received a copy of the latest Wegmans magazine - full of Italian Pasta Meals!

The Monday Pasta Extravaganza is going to going on for many many many more weeks to come!

It is so good to be me!


Pansotti con Salsa di Noci

I don't even know where to begin.

Dinner tonight was just unbelievable.

I could die right now and have lived a complete life.

This is one of those recipes that sounds wonderful but is actually even more wonderful when you taste it!  Just wonderful.

Creamy good.  The sauce is surprisingly silky for having so many walnuts in it.  The food processor really does a good job.  (It may state mortar and pestle but we cook using 20th century equipment, whenever possible!)

There is a definite garlic undercurrent to it - even though the sauce only calls for one clove.  But the other flavors work together well with it.  The ravioli filling actually has flavor and texture to it - something usually lacking in the store-bought variety.

The actual pasta was light enough not to be a belly bomb, but substantial enough that you knew you were eating a ravioli.  A real ravioli.

Balance.

And balance pretty much sums up the whole plate.

Wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

Pansotti

Dough

  • 3 cups unbleached all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1/3 to 1/2 cup water
  • 1 large egg

In a large bowl, whisk together flour and salt. Mound flour mixture and form a well in the center. Add wine, 1/3 cup water and get to the well. Using a fork, gently break up yolk and slowly incorporate flour from inside rim of well. Continue until liquid is absorbed, then knead in bowl until dough forms a complete mass. Transfer to a well floured work surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes more. If dough is not coming together add more water by the tablespoonful to moisten. Wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

Unwrap dough and knead for 5 minutes. Flatten dough so that it will fit through the rollers of a hand-cranked pasta machine. Set the rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting, then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times, folding and turning the pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.

Cut dough into 3 pieces; cover 2 pieces with a clean dishtowel. Begin rolling pasta through machine, decreasing the setting one notch at a time (do not fold or turn pasta) until the sheet is 1/8 inch thick. Cut pasta sheet into 2 pieces. Dust both sides of sheets with flour and cover 1 sheet with a clean dishtowel. Cut the other sheet of pasta into 3 inch squares. Fill each with 1 teaspoon filling. Fold into triangles and seal with a dab of water and crimp with a fork. Transfer to a clean dry lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pasta sheet, then roll, cut and fill remaining dough, 1 piece at a time.

Unwrap dough and knead for five minutes.
Feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times.

Filling

  • 1 lb Swiss chard, stems and center ribs removed, leaves coarsely chopped.
  • 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt
  • 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  • 3/4 cup fresh ricotta cheese
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add chard and cook for 3 minutes. Drain, then squeeze out all excess water. Finely chop together chard and basil

Mound garlic and salt on a cutting board. Using the blade and flat side of a chef’s knife, chop and blend together the garlic and salt to a paste. In a bowl, combine greens garlic paste, Parmigiano-Reggiano, ricotta, egg and pepper. Cover bowl and set aside.

Fill each with 1 teaspoon filling. Fold into triangles and seal.
Transfer to a clean dry lightly floured baking sheet.

Pansotti con salsa di noci – Pansotti with walnut sauce

  • 3/4 cup walnut pieces
  • 1 cup (1/2 inch) cubes day-old rustic bread
  • Sea Salt
  • Fresh ground black pepper
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 1/3 cup plus 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup fresh ricotta cheese
  • 1/4 cup nonfat Greek yogurt
  • 1 batch Pansotti

Put the bread in a bowl, cover with tepid tab water and let stand for 5 minutes, then drain and squeeze out excess water

Place the walnuts, 3/4 tsp salt and a pinch of pepper into a food processor. Add the garlic and drizzle in all but 2 tbsp. of the olive oil. Add the ricotta and yogurt and the last 2 tbls oil and mix until combined.

Toss in a bowl with the warm Pansotti and serve immediately.

Dough

3 cups unbleached all purpose flour

1 ½ tsp fine sea salt

¼ cup dry white wine

1/3  to ½ cup water

1 large egg


Tagliatelle 'Paglia e Fieno' con Prosciutto e Funghi

Oh.My.God.

I have died and gone to gastronomic heaven.  And I'm loving every bit of it.

Victor has once again shown why I love La Cucina Italiana Magazine.  And this months, The Pasta Issue.

After the fantastic pasta from yesterday, Victor decreed that, on Mondays,  he would be making all of the various pasta dishes in the magazine.  Starting today.

Today was Tagliatelle 'Paglia e Fieno' con Prosciutto e Funghi.  "Straw and Hay" Tagliatelle with Prosciutto and Mushrooms.  The straw is the yellow pasta,, the hay is the green.  Colorful names, these Italians have for their foods, eh?  But colorful names aside, the key to this is the homemade pasta.  And Victor made the lightest, most wonderful flavorful pasta one could ever imagine.  Firm, yet silken.  With body and substance without heaviness.

Perfection.

We've had the pasta roller for years and I do have to admit I haven't pulled it out in months.  But after tonight, I think it's going to be a regular visitor in the kitchen - especially this fall and winter.

Starting the "straw" pasta.
Going through the pasta roller.

Tagliatelle “paglia e fieno” – (Straw and Hay” Tagliatelle)

Makes about 14 oz of Pasta.

  • 4oz fresh spinach
  • Fine sea salt
  • 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks

Parchment paper or wax paper

Trim stems from spinach, discard stems. Rinse leaves in cold water, do not dry.
In a medium saucepan with a pinch of salt, cook spinach over medium heat covered, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes.
Drain spinach and let cool, then gently but thoroughly squeeze out excess liquid and very finely chop.

On a clean work surface, mound 1 cup flour and form a well in the center.
Add 1 egg, 1 egg yolk and spinach into the well. Using a fork (or your fingers) gently break up yolk and slowly incorporate flour . Continue until the liquid is absorbed, then knead for 10 minutes.
Wrap dough tightly in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes

Repeat the process above with the flour and eggs to make the other half of the dough. Knead for 10 minutes and wrap in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes

After the dough has rested:

  1. Take the spinach dough and divide into 3 equal pieces (cover the other two and set aside)
  2. Set the rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times folding and turning pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.
  3. Roll dough through the machine, decreasing the setting one notch at a time (do not fold or turn the dough this time) until pasta sheet is a scant 1/16 inch thick.
  4. Cut sheet in half crosswise, lightly dust both sides with flour. Layer sheets between floured pieces of parchment or wax paper.
  5. Repeat the process until both types of dough is rolled out.

Cutting:

  1. Loosely roll up the pasta sheet and with a very sharp chefs knife, cut rolled sheet crosswise into ¼ inch strips.
  2. Unroll ribbons of pasta, lightly dust with flour and spread on a lightly floured baking sheet.
  3. Repeat with remaining pasta sheets.

To cook:

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
  2. Add Tagliatelle and cook until tender – about 3 minutes…no more.
  3. Drain and sauce with whatever sauce you are using.
A finished sheet of "hay".
Cut and ready to cook.

Tagliatelle “paglia e fieno” con prosciutto e funghi – Straw and Hay Tagliatelle with Prosciutto and Mushrooms.

  • Fine sea salt
  • 6 oz 1/8 inch thick slices prosciutto – cut into matchsticks
  • ½ lb button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
  • 1 large shallot, finely chopped
  • 2 tbls unsalted butter
  • 3 large or 5 small sage leaves
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • ¼ cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley
  • ¼ cup finely grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

1 recipe (14 oz) fresh straw and hay Tagliatelle or 14 oz dried from the store.

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
  2. In a large skillet, combine shallot, butter and sage, heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally until butter is melted.
  3. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring for 1 minute.
  4. Remove sage leaves at this point and add the matchstick prosciutto and cook until golden, but still tender (about 3 minutes)
  5. Add cream to the skillet, bring to a simmer and cook for 1 minute.
  6. Stir in parsley and cheese, remove sauce from heat.
  7. When pasta is al dente, reserving ¼ cup of pasta water, drain pasta and add to the skillet with the hot sauce. Add a bit of the pasta water only if you feel you need to thin the sauce a bit. Toss.
  8. Serve and eat immediately.

I bought a loaf of fresh-baked crusty Italian bread at the store today in anticipation of this dinner.  I sliced it - and didn't touch a slice.  I was too busy loving every bite of the pasta.

And while it looks like a lot of work, it's not, really.  And trust me - it is worth every second spent in the kitchen.

I can't wait until next Monday!

Tagliatelle “paglia e fieno” – (Straw and Hay” Tagliatelle)

Makes about 14 oz of Pasta.

4oz fresh spinach

Fine sea salt

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

Parchment paper or wax paper

Trim stems from spinach, discard stems. Rinse leaves in cold water, do not dry.

In a medium saucepan with a pinch of salt, cook spinach over medium heat covered, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes.

Drain spinach and let cool, then gently but thoroughly squeeze out excess liquid and very finely chop.

On a clean work surface, mound 1 cup flour and form a well in the center.

Add 1 egg, 1 egg yolk and spinach into the well. Using a fork (or your fingers) gently break up yolk and slowly incorporate flour . Continue until the liquid is absorbed, then knead for 10 minutes.

Wrap dough tightly in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes

Repeat the process above with the flour and eggs to make the other half of the dough. Knead for 10 minutes and wrap in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes

After the dough has rested:

Take the spinach dough and divide into 3 equal pieces (cover the other two and set aside)

Set the rollers of pasta machine at the widest setting then feed pasta through rollers 3 or 4 times folding and turning pasta until it is smooth and the width of the machine.

Roll dough through the machine, decreasing the setting one notch at a time (do not fold or turn the dough this time) until pasta sheet is a scant 1/16 inch thick.

Cut sheet in half crosswise, lightly dust both sides with flour. Layer sheets between floured pieces of parchment or wax paper.

Repeat the process until both types of dough is rolled out.

Cutting:

Loosely roll up the pasta sheet and with a very sharp chefs knife, cut rolled sheet crosswise into ¼ inch strips.

Unroll ribbons of pasta, lightly dust with flour and spread on a lightly floured baking sheet.

Repeat with remaining pasta sheets.

To cook:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add Tagliatelle and cook until tender – about 3 minutes…no more. Drain and sauce with whatever sauce you are using.