• Salt and pepper
• 1 cup arborio or another good short-grain rice
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup grated fontina or other good semisoft cheese
• 1 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish.

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil, and salt it as for cooking pasta. Add rice in a steady steam, and stir. When water returns to a boil, lower heat, and simmer rice, stirring occasionally, until it is tender but not mushy, about 15 minutes. Drain.

2. Put butter in a saucepan large enough to hold rice, and turn heat to medium. When butter melts and just begins to turn brown, add rice, and toss together. Stir in fontina, then about a cup of grated Parmesan, along with some salt and pepper. Serve, passing more Parmesan at the table.