Cooking Magazines

I finally did it. I let every cooking magazine lapse. No more Bon Appetit's or Vegetarian Times or any other food-related mags cluttering up the house. This past September, we even donated close to 200 cookbooks to the Tredyffrin Library. Dust collectors, all.

I haven't stopped cooking, and I haven't stopped looking for new recipes, but it seems like the same stuff is being rehashed in these magazines, or they're redoing recipes using "convenience" foods. Not my cup of tea.

So, in picking up the mail this afternoon, I find an unsolicited copy of Cuisine At Home Magazine. My first instinct is to toss it into the recycle bin. I don't want another magazine. But I notice on the bottom that there are recipes from Mary Ann Esposito - The Ciao italia cook! I lik Mary Ann, because she uses simple foods and lets flavors speak for themselves.

She had a recipe for Pappardelle with Chicken, Mushrooms, and Wine that sounded really good, and since I was actually planning to do something with chicken and mushrooms for dinner tonight, anyway, I thought I'd give it a go.

The recipe:

Saute in 2 tbsp butter:
1 lb mushrooms, quartered

Stir in:
1/2 cuup dry red wine

Combine/Dredge:
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken or rabbit (4lb) cut up, washed, and dried

Brown Chicken in:
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp olive oil

Saute/Stir in:
4 oz pancetta or bacon, diced
1 medium red onion, diced
1/2 lb fennel, bulb only, cut into strips
3 tsp garlic, minced
1/2 cup red wine
1 tbsp minced fresh sage
Cooked mushrooms with liquid

Return chicken and bake at 325 about 40 min; Stir in:
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Prepare according to directions:
1 lb dry pappardelle or egg noodles

Easy enough! I thought I had some pappardelle, but I had used it a while back, so my first substitution was 24" long spaghetti.

I had presliced mushrooms, so I used those. No red wine, but lots of white, so I used that, instead. I didn't have any fennel, but I had 2 Belgian Endives in the fridge, so I used them. Oh - and no red onion. I used yellow.

It came out great! And the possibilities are endless.

And the magazine?!? Into the recycle bin. I really didn't care for the way the recipes were written, and while I did get one good recipe, I just don't need another magazine coming into the house.

But thanks for a great dinner, Mary Ann!


Still Cooking

No, I haven't stopped cooking. I haven't stopped eating, either. I just haven't been making the time to write about it. Just busybusybusy.

That's the problem with doing something like this. One starts it when one has alllll the time in the world - and then the world decides to catch up.

Our friend Paige is in town right now - I'm doing a website for her - and we're spending an inordinate amount of time in front of the computer checking, rechecking, editing, tweaking... all of the things that one must do if the site is going to look right. (Just published! http://www.paigerpenland.com) We're all eating well, too! Man (or woman) does not live by website, alone. I do have my priorities slightly in order - at least when it comes to eating...

Wednesday night we started off with a Saga brie baked with Apple/Cranberry chutney and almonds. Yum. I roasted a chicken (picked up at the Lancaster Farmer's Market) stuffed with a fig and walnut dressing. Smashed potatoes, brussel's sprouts, a lovely mixed salad with cranberry stilton and pumpkin dressing - a take on a salad we've been making at work for the past few years...

We also had fresh apple dumplins - but were too full to eat them!

Thursday night was chicken soup. I had that lovely carcass from the night before... Handfuls of everything, from brown rice to wild rice, fresh lima beans, celery, carrots... all the fun stuff! Tres bueno! And those delicious apple dumplings were the perfect dessert!

And nary a leftover.....


Spring Cleaning

I cleaned the grill today. It's not as if it really needed it, or anything. I mean, we only bought it 4 years ago... I always clean the grills, but I haven't ventured inside since I put it together. It was pretty skanky in there. Out came the shop vac, which captured most of the crud. I soaked the grills and the briquettes, cleaned the burners... Put it all back together and it's almost like brand-new! I then got industrious and washed the truck. It had probably been a year since that was cleaned, too. Something about a beautiful Spring day that had me yearning to be outdoors, instead of in front of the computer where I can usually be found...

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Before starting my cleaning chores, though, I started marinating tonight's dinner. Another salad, of course. This time, with grilled chicken and grilled vegetables.

I cut up 2 chicken breasts, and put them in a ziplock with chopped lemongrass, basil, cilantro, rice wine, soy sauce, garlic, green onion, a splash of grapeseed oil, chili paste (sambal oelek) and black pepper. Into the 'fridge it went. I turned it a couple of times - whenever I went to get a seltzer water. (No coca-cola for this kid!)

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With a clean grill awaitin' me, I chopped up some celery, carrots, broccoli, red pepper, mushrooms, cilantro, and basil and did a quick marinade of rice wine, soy sauce, grapeseed oil, and garlic.

What a difference cooking with a cleaned out grill! If I had half a brain, I'd clean that thing a bit more often! (Don't anyone hold their breath...)

Everything cooked up great. The sun was shining... The smoke and smells were wafting through the neighborhood... A picture-perfect 78 degree day. Everything came off the grill, and back inside to put it all together...

Mixed greens, the aforementioned veggies, a sprinkling of raspberries and blackberries - because I had them - the chicken, and a simple dressing of olive oil, rice wine vinegar, lemon juice, garlic, S&P.

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It just doesn't get any better than this.....


The Chicken That Keeps On Giving...

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Oh, the weather outside is frightful... heck, it's COLD outside! Cold means casserole. Casserole means using up what's in the house. In the house is half a roasted chicken! Dinner solved.

This really was an easy one tonight. I pulled off all the chicken from the carcass and set it aside. The carcass went into a pot with the leftover gravy, chicken broth, and some water. I let it simmer for a while whilst I got my hair cut. I'm king of multi-tasking!

Hair cut, showered, and ready to head back into the kitchen... ! strained the broth, added the chicken, some frozen mixed vegetables and heated. Cooked a package of Organic Sprouted Wheat Papparrdelle Pasta, drained and added to the pot.

Into the casserole dish, topped with buttered bread crumbs, and into a 375 degree oven. I could have put it into a lower temp oven, but it was cold outside. 30 minutes later it was dinner!

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Rumor has it we're supposed to start getting warmer weather. I sure hope so. In the meantime, though, casseroles are the best way to get through those bone-chilling days!

(I must admit, though, my waistline is looking forward to a few months of salads!)


Open The Windows!

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Do not try this on a cold day - or any day you have to open every window in the house! The final product was soooooo good, but it looked like the house was afire for a while!

What could make the house smoke so much? Well, it certainly wasn't a dirty oven. I cleaned the oven last night - which meant I had to put something in it, today!

Shopping day, yesterday, found me with a couple of my favorite chickens. Murray's. From birth in the scenic Amish countryside, Murray's All Natural Chickens are raised without use of any antibiotics, growth stimulants, pesticides, and hormones. Our chickens are raised over eight weeks in a natural environment that allows our chickens to roam freely in wide open spaces. Murray's Antibiotic Free Chickens are grown in the Blue Mountains in the tranquil Amish countryside of Pennsylvania. Murray's birds eat well, (strictly veggie diet, no antibiotics, no hormones, no growth drugs) and have considerably more space to stretch their wings. In fact their homes are more like avian spas: food and water flow freely and the chickens lounge around as they please. As we say at the farm "the happier the Murray's Chickens are, the better they taste."

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Okay, enough of the advert. They ARE great tasting chickens, though!

At their website, I saw a link for recipes, which led me to tonight's Great American Smoke-Out!

The recipe I found is for Salt Baked Chickens with Spring Vegetable and Mushroom Ragout. Now, I wasn't in the mood for 1) cooking 4 chickens, and 2) having vegetable ragout tonight, but the chicken recipe itself intrigued me. I've done some salt-rubbed dishes in the past, but none with chicken. And I just happened to have the fleur de sel!

Salt Baked Chickens

  • 1/2 cup fleur de sel, to coat
  • 1/4 cup coarse ground black pepper, to coat
  • 4 free range chickens (4 to 6 pounds each)
  • 1 cup canola oil

Preheat oven to 550 degrees. Mix together the salt and pepper. Rub chicken with oil inside and out, then liberally coat with salt mix. Place chicken, breast-side up, in the oven and cook for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown. The chicken may have to be rotated for even coloring. When chicken is fully browned turn the oven down to 300 degrees. Cover with foil to prevent burning. Chicken will take another 35 to 45 minutes. Chicken is done when one can move the wing back and forth with great ease. Another test is piercing between the thigh and breast and the juices should run clear. Allow chicken to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

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The finished product was moist, tender, and perfectly cooked! One of the best roasted chickens I've had in quite a while! Since I eschewed the Vegetable Ragout, I had to have other side dishes, right?!? I mean, chicken is good, but a MEAL requires more! 2 potatoes, boiled and mashed with their skins still on, with butter and sour cream. A simple pan gravy, and steamed broccoli finished it off.

And the great thing about it is - there's leftovers!!!


I'm still cooking!

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It's not as if I haven't been cooking lately... Really... It's just that I've been doing a lot of other things, too - and somehow, this has gotten shuffled to the bottom of the deck.

The other night, I pounded a couple of chicken breasts, stuffed them with mushrooms, celery, onions, and parsley, then baked at 350 for about 45 minutes. I made some spelt pilaf, braised some escarole, made a simple dill cream sauce (thin white sauce with cream and dill...) and it was yummy! Prep time was about 10 minutes, and the cooking was all unattended. Well - except for the escarole, which was about 3 minutes - maybe...

Victor had made a pear cake the day before, so dessert was taken care of, too. A day without dessert is like - a day without dessert! I'll have to get Victor to post the recipe! It's actually an apple cake, but... we had pears...

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Right now, there's some cubed beef on the stove simmering with some Mexican Red Sauce. It smells great! More about that when it's ready!


We Always Eat Well On Wednesday

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We always eat well on Wednesday. Wednesday is shopping day, Wednesday is "I'm off work" day, and Wednesday means I can actually spend a few minutes in the kitchen!

Shopping today was a lot of fun because we were out of everything! I didn't go shopping last week because of the trip to San Francisco... no sense buying stuff just to sit in the fridge while we're 3000 miles away. Besides, there was plenty of stuff in the freezer and cupboards to get us through.

Last night I was taking inventory and actually writing a list of basics we needed when I came upon a small package of blue cornmeal. It had been in the cupboard for a while. I think I bought it at the Lancaster farmer's market, but it could have come from any number of places. Anyway... I decided I was going to use it today. I had a few ideas in mind... I have chopped green chilies, there's some cheddar cheese... Muffins or cornbread would work. I was kinda thinking Mexican. I did my shopping without a clear picture in mind (typical...) and came home to figure out tonight's meal. I had everything I needed to go in any number of directions, but I still wasn't quite sure...

And then I came upon a Cornbread Stuffing recipe from Bon Appetit last November. It was perfect! It would use up the ham slice in the freezer, the chestnuts in the cupboard from Christmas... Out with the old, make way for the new! We were having Stuffed Chicken Breasts for dinner tonight!

The full meal was the stuffed chicken breasts served on a bed of Manishewitz extra extra fine egg noodles with a mushroom sauce and escarole braised in white balsamic vinegar and garlic. Oh yum!
Direct from Epicurious...

STONE-GROUND CORNBREAD

This simple, rustic cornbread is best used for making stuffing.

  • 1 1/4 cups medium-grind stone-ground whole-grain yellow cornmeal
  • 3/4 cup all purpose flour
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1 large egg
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter 11x7x2-inch metal baking pan. Whisk cornmeal, flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in medium bowl to blend. Whisk milk and egg in small bowl to blend. Add milk mixture and melted butter to cornmeal mixture and stir just until blended. Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top.
Bake cornbread until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool in pan 10 minutes. Turn cornbread out onto rack and cool completely. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Wrap cornbread in foil and store at room temperature.)

CORNBREAD STUFFING WITH HAM, CHESTNUTS, AND SAGE

For convenience, make the cornbread one day before preparing the stuffing.

  • Stone-Ground Cornbread
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, divided
  • 8 ounces ham steak, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)
  • 2 cups chopped onions
  • 3 large celery stalks, chopped (about 1 3/4 cups)
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
  • 1 7.25-ounce jar steamed peeled chestnuts, coarsely crumbled
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 cups (or more) low-salt chicken broth
  • 2 large eggs
  • Nonstick vegetable oil spray

Preheat oven to 350°F. Coarsely crumble cornbread onto large rimmed baking sheet. Toast in oven until slightly dried, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven. Maintain oven temperature.

Butter 11x7x2-inch glass baking dish. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add diced ham and sauté until browned, about 6 minutes. Transfer ham to large bowl. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in same skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery, and sage; cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Transfer vegetable mixture to bowl with ham. Stir in chestnuts, parsley, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. (Toasted cornbread and ham mixture can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and store cornbread at room temperature. Cool ham mixture slightly, then cover and refrigerate.)

Stir crumbled cornbread into ham mixture. Whisk 1 1/2 cups chicken broth and eggs in medium bowl to blend. Mix into stuffing, adding more chicken broth by tablespoonfuls if dry. Transfer stuffing to prepared baking dish. Dot with remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Spray sheet of foil on 1 side with nonstick spray. Cover cornbread stuffing with foil, sprayed side down. Bake stuffing 40 minutes. Uncover and bake until top begins to brown, about 20 minutes longer.

I more or less followed the recipes (at least as much as I ever follow a recipe...) but used my own homemade chicken broth and I added about a half loaf of whole wheat bread that I cubed and toasted. And another egg, and more broth...

For the sauce I sauteed about 4 oz mushrooms in a tbsp butter and browned them well. Added a bit of flour, then a couple of cups of the aforementioned chicken broth. A shot of garlic powder, and some S&P, and it was ready.

The escarole was a splash of olive oil in a frying pan, added the escarole, a bit of S&P, garlic powder, and a sprinkling of white balsamic vinegar. Cooked it until wilted. It was yummy, too!

Start-to-finish was about 2 hours - and that included making and baking the cornbread. Any and all parts can be done in advance, and it's bake in the oven about 45 minutes!


What's For Dinner?!?

I'll admit that when I go grocery shopping, I don't usually have a plan. I do the weekly shopping on Wednesday, and usually just buy what strikes me at the time. If it looks good, it goes into the cart. It can be just about anything. Heck, I'm easy when it comes to food. I like everything! So, it's not unusual to find a hodgepodge of items in the fridge or cabinets. It makes cooking dinner an adventure - and I can almost always make just about anything i want without having to head back to the store!

Naturally, there can be a downside... Fresh produce that's not going to remain fresh much longer, for example... That's where stirfry's come in. First off, I love them! An assortment of just about anything in a spicy, flavorful sauce is right up my gastronomic alley. Thankfully, Victor feels the same way - and knows his way around a kitchen, too!

I worked until 5:30pm tonight, and thought I'd throw something together for dinner when I got home. Instead, I was treated with "I have dinner all planned" when I walked in the door! The only thing better than cooking is having someone else cook for you! I was psyched!

Victor cleaned out the produce bin and chopped asparagus, red bell pepper, carrots, celery, onion, and mushrooms. Sauteed some chicken breasts, added the above veggies, and made the most delicious sauce with wasabi teriyaki sauce, peach jam, and chili paste! Juuuuust spicy enough, without clearing out the sinuses completely! Served over white rice... It was great! Cleaned out fridge, full belly... Life is good.

Now I have to figure out something for dessert! ;-)


Please to The Table

There's a new cookbook gracing our humble abode - Please To The Table The Russian Cookbook. What fun!

Now, I'm an Irish kid from San Francisco. My knowledge of Russian and eastern European foods is pretty much limited to vodka and caviar, so what a treat it is to see so many new foods to try! The book covers everywhere from "The Baltics to Uzbekistan" - and that's quite a lot of food! I mean - they're talking some 6 million square miles! The cuisine - and recipes - are as varied as the people.

In just a quick perusal, I've found dozens of goodies I want to try, but tonight I settled on the Pozharskiye Kotleti or, for the English-speaking amongst us, Chicken Croquettes Pozharsky, for the main reason that I had all the ingredients at home already! That, and I have a very vague recollection of a restaurant I worked in back around 1974/5 that served Chicken and Veal Croquettes with a Mushroom Sauce... The Red Chimney... But I digress...


From the book: "These fluffy, delicate ground chicken and veal croquettes are traditionally accompanied by smothered mushrooms. I often serve Mushrooms sauteed with Madeira alongside." I took the authors advice! They were fantastic!

The recipe makes 12 croquettes. I cooked up 8 - 2 each for dinner and the others for lunch tomorrow - and froze the other 4 uncooked.

I actually ground my own chicken and veal because, well... I have a grinder attachment to the KitchenAid, and I already had both chicken and veal in the freezer - but it wasn't ground! Besides, I haven't used the grinder attachment in a while, and I'm sure it was feeling neglected down there in that bottom cabinet! The croquettes were easy to form, but it was a bit of a challenge dipping them in the egg and then the crumbs - but, I had it down after the first few.

The recipe...

  • 3 slices whole wheat bread, crusts removed
  • 1/3 cup heavy cream
  • 1 lb ground chicken breast meat
  • 3/4 lb ground veal
  • 1 small onion, minced
  • 9 tbsp butter, at room temperature
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 2 tbsp madeira
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh dill (optional)
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 large egg white
  • About 1 1/2 cups unflavored fine, dry bread crumbs
  • 2 eggs, beaten, for dipping the chicken
  • 4 tbsp light vegetable oil

1) Soak the bread slices in the cream for 10 minutes. Squeeze the bread to remove any excess cream. Then discard all but 3 tbsp of the cream.

2) In a food processor, combine the bread, cream, chicken, veal, onion, 3 tbsp butter, the egg yolks, Meadeira, dill (if using), and salt and pepper. Process for 3 or 4 pulses until well blended but not pureed. Transfer to a large bowl.

3) Beat the egg white until it holds stiff peaks. Gently fold it into the meat mixture. If the mixture seems too loose to form into croquettes, cover, and refrigerate to firm up, 1 hour.

4) have a bowl of cold water ready. Dip your hands in the cold water to prevent the meat from sticking to your hands. Shape the mixture into 12 oval croquettes.

5) Sprinle the breadcrumbs on a cutting board or other flat surface. Dip the croquettes into the beaten egg, then roll them in the breadcrumbs to coat well.

6) Heat 2 tbsp of the remaining butter and 2 tbsp of the oil in a large skillet. Fry 6 of the croquettes over medium heat until crispy and brown, 12 to 15 minutes. The juices should run clear when a croquette is pierced with a fork. Repeat with the rest of the croquettes, adding more butter and oil as needed. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

I followed the basic instructions, except I mixed it all by hand, since I actually ground the onion and the soaked bread with the chicken and veal (I LOVE my grinder, I have to USE it more often!!) I also refrigerated it for a couple of hours, because I made it early in the afternoon.

Served with mashed potatoes, broccoli, and the mushroom madeira sauce and it was a pretty good nosh!


Dinner is SO much better...

...when someone else cooks!

When I was down at the farmer's market last week ordering the turkey and buying that big ol' stewing hen, I also picked up a few chicken breasts. Into the freezer they went... They're great for those "what do I have/want for dinner" days. No planning involved, they work with anything.

I was off work today, so Victor and I went out looking to maybe purchase a few more serving bowls for Thanksgiving. We both have a serious bowl and platter fetish. We have more than we will ever need, more than we could ever use - but they're not necessarily the exact size I may want or need for a large gathering. Okay - it's just an excuse to get more, but what the heck. Any excuse to buy more works for me!

We hit a couple of local stores, didn't see anything we liked, but did make it home with more Christmas decorations! If you think the bowl/platter fetish is bad - the Christmas decoration fetish is worse. Santa comes to our house when he needs something! (But that's for another post for another day!!)

Back to the chicken breasts... I pulled two out of the freezer and set them on the counter to thaw. I was just going to do some simple breaded cutlets, maybe oven roast a couple of potatoes. Simple, no brainer, no thought process involved.

I had to do a bit of Family Tree updating and Victor asked if I had any plans for the chicken, because he'd cook dinner. I said I was thinking chicken cutlets, but if he's cooking, I'm eating - have at it! (I'm easy that way!!) He headed to the kitchen, I headed to the office.

About 20 minutes later, I smell the most wonderful aroma coming from the kitchen! The kitchen is at the other end of the house, so it has to be GOOD for it to travel all the way back here! And it was! Cave-Aged Gorgonzola Scalloped Potatoes were in the oven! OMG! I'll repeat. OMG! Can we say fabulous boys and girls?!? I wanted them THEN - but had to impatiently wait another ten minutes. It seemed an eternity. But oh so worth the wait!

Thinly sliced potatoes, layered in a shallow casserole with butter, parmesan, and gorgonzola, with just enough broth to cook them. Crusty-crunchy on the top, melt-in-your-mouth perfection underneath. Just the right amount of everything. No one flavor was overwhelming, yet every one was distinct. One of those magic moments - and done with what was in the kitchen - no cookbooks involved.

The chicken cutlets were perfectly thin, breaded, and fried in olive oil. Fork-tender, with the perfect combination of crunch and flavor. There should have been enough for Victor to have a cutlet sandwich tomorrow while I'm at work. Somehow, both plates were emptied.

AND he did the dishes while I ran back here to - well... gloat is probably the only honest word I can use! I'm properly stuffed, my stomach is smiling, and life is good. Later on there will be a chocolate cake with a thick chocolate ganache I made a couple of days ago.

All I have to do now is figure out what I'm cooking the store crew for breakfast tomorrow.