Christmas Eggnog Cake

It's a really quiet Christmas Day around here. Almost too quiet. Both of us are used to loud, raucous family gatherings, so it's a bit strange to be home in a relatively quiet house. Nonna just isn't up to traveling to North Jersey anymore - she got carsick the last two times she went, so I don't see any more trips north, for a while. We miss the fun, but it is what it is...

So with a mere three in the house, there's lots of time to do things. Like bake a cake. And what to do when you have a quart of eggnog in the 'fridge? Why... make an Eggnog Cake, of course!

I was first going to make my mom's Eggnog Pie, but changed my mind on the way to the kitchen. I do that often...

A quick Google Search brought up a score of the exact same recipe, so I went for it.

Eggnog Cake

All Recipes.com

Ingredients

Cake:

  • 1/2 cup butter, room temperature
  • 1 1/4 cups white sugar
  • 3 eggs, room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup prepared eggnog (or see notes for recipe)
  • 2 tablespoons bourbon whiskey

Frosting:

  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 cups prepared eggnog (or see notes for recipe)
  • 1 cup butter, room temperature
  • 1 1/2 cups white sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon rum-flavored extract
  • 1/8 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped toasted pecans (optional)

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease and flour two 9-inch round baking pans.
  2. Beat 1/2 cup butter and 1 1/4 cups sugar with an electric mixer in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Mixture should be noticeably lighter in color. Add eggs, one at a time, allowing each egg to blend into butter mixture before adding the next. Stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and 1/4 teaspoon lemon peel, mixing well.
  3. Combine 2 cups flour, baking powder, and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Pour flour mixture into the batter alternately with 1 cup eggnog, mixing until just incorporated. Stir in bourbon. Divide batter evenly between prepared pans.
  4. Bake in preheated oven until cake springs back when touched lightly with a fingertip or a toothpick inserted in the centers comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes (test both cake layers). Cool in pans for 10 minutes before inverting on a wire rack to cool completely.
  5. To make frosting, combine 1/4 cup flour and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a saucepan. Gradually whisk in 1 1/2 cups eggnog, whisking until smooth.
  6. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. When mixture boils, cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly, until thickened. Remove from heat and let cool completely to room temperature.
  7. Beat 1 cup butter and 1 1/2 cups sugar in a bowl until light and fluffy. Mix in cooled eggnog mixture, 1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, rum extract, and 1/8 teaspoon grated lemon peel. Beat on high speed until mixture is fully incorporated and frosting is fluffy.
  8. Spread cake with plain frosting between cake layers, over the top and on the sides. Coat the sides with toasted pecans, pressing the nuts onto sides in small handfuls. Refrigerate until serving time.

The frosting is interesting - you cook a batter of sorts with eggnog and flour, let it cool, and then whip it in to butter and granulated sugar. It's very soft and fluffy - easy to work - and definitely needs to get into a refrigerator to set up.  Both the cake batter and the icing tasted great on their own.

And it was a hit! We may have to add this onto the Holiday Baking List!

by Tim Dineen

Three of the Seven Fishes

Merry Christmas Eve - La Vigilia  - The Feast of the Seven Fish.

We're home this Christmas Eve - Nonna is not up to traveling up to North Jersey - so we're doing a bit of a rake on the 7 fish theme.  Three Fish in Puff Pastry.

It's a really simple concept - make a stuffing of crab, shrimp, shallots, celery, and bread crumbs - put it in puff pastry with some fish filets, and bake.

Oh - and it tastes really good.

Since moving east we have gone up to Victor's sister's house for Christmas, and out BIL, Tom, creates a feast. The entire 7 fish, wine, desserts for days... It's a sight to behold. Gastronomic heaven on Christmas Earth.

But it doesn't seem as if we're going to be able to be a part of this, for a while.

Time to institute Plan B.

With only three of us, actually doing 7 fish is difficult when one of the three doesn't eat much fish. I settled on three - crab, shrimp, and cod - mostly disguised.

It was definitely a hit!

I got the basic recipe from AllRecipes.com but switched things around quite a bit - as I usuall do...

Here's the recipe and my changes at the end...

Stuffed Fish in Puff Pastry
allrecipes.com

  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1 cup finely chopped onion
  • 1 cup minced celery
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
  • 8 ounces crabmeat
  • 8 ounces shrimp, peeled, deveined and minced
  • 1/4 cup dry vermouth
  • salt to taste
  • ground black pepper to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
  • 1/2 cup bread crumbs
  • 1 (17.5 ounce) package frozen puff pastry sheets, thawed
  • 2 pounds flounder fillets
  • 2 egg yolks, beaten

Directions

  1. To make the stuffing: Melt butter or margarine in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Saute onion, celery, and parsley until all of the vegetables are just tender. Mix in crabmeat, shrimp, and vermouth. Season with salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce; cook until shrimp is finished cooking (it will be pink). Mix in bread crumbs, a little at a time. When the mixture holds together well, stop adding bread crumbs. Taste and add more seasoning (salt, pepper, and hot pepper sauce) if necessary. Set this mixture aside to let it cool.

  2. Spray a baking sheet with non-stick cooking spray.

  3. Roll 1 sheet of puff pastry onto a flat surface. The puff pastry, once rolled should be about 1/3 to 1/4 inch thick and large enough for you to lay the fish on top of it and still have puff pastry on the sides. Lay one of the fish fillets on top of the puff pastry. Spread the stuffing mixture evenly over the fish fillet. Place the remaining fillet over the stuffing. Trim the pastry around the filets in roughly the shape of a fish. Save the trimmings.

  4. Roll second sheet of puff pastry out to about 1/3 to 1/4 inch thick. Drape second sheet over stuffed fillets, making sure that there is enough of the top sheet to tuck under the bottom sheet of puff pastry. Trim the top sheet of pastry about 1/2 inch larger than the bottom sheet. Brush underside of top pastry sheet with water and tuck under bottom sheet of puff pastry pressing lightly to totally encase the fish and stuffing package. Place the sealed packet on the prepared baking sheet, and let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

  5. While packet is chilling, roll out pastry scraps. From the scraps cut out fins, an eye and 'lips'. Attach cut-outs to chilled package with a little water. Use an inverted teaspoon to make indentations in puff pastry to resemble fish scales but do not puncture pastry. Chill entire package.

  6. While the package is chilling, preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C).

  7. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and brush the package with the egg yolks. Measure the thickness of the package at its thickest part. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) and bake the fish for 10 extra minutes per inch of measured thickness. Test for doneness by inserting a thermometer into the package, when the temperature reaches 140 degrees F (70 degrees C) the fish is finished cooking.

I used shallots in place of onions, omitted the red pepper because Nonna doesn't like spice, increased the shrimp, used a pinot grigio in place of the vermouth, used only 2/3 lb of cod, and didn't form it into a fish.

I placed all of the stuffing on the pastry and then put two fish filets on top.

Reality is,  you could completely eliminate the fish filets or just add chunks to the filling.

It really was good - and something I will make again!

by Tim Dineen

Pistachio Biscotti

  • 2 3/4 cups flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 cube (stick) butter
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 3 tbsp cream of pistachio liqueur – or pistachio liqueur
  • 8 oz pistachios, roasted – unsalted
  • 1 tsp vanilla

Sift together dry ingredients.  Cream sugar and butter, add eggs one at a time. Add vanilla and pistachio cream. Stir in flour. Stir in pistachios.

Divide dough in half.  Shape into logs.  Place on greased cookie sheets and bake at 350° for 18-20 minutes.

Cool completely.  Slice into 1/4 to 1/2″ slices and toast on both sides in 350° oven.

Pistachio Cream Liqueur

  • 8 oz pistachios, roasted and coarsely chopped
  • 750ml Everclear or 100 proof vodka
  • 1 1/2 qts whole milk
  • 3 lbs sugar
  • 1 tbsp vanilla extract

Pour alcohol over pistachios and let sit for a week to infuse. Shake or stir now and again.

On day 7… Bring sugar and milk to a boil and simmer until sugar is dissolved and mixture gets syrupy – about 10 or 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely.

Strain pistachio alcohol through several layers of cheesecloth. Discard pistachios.

Mix cooled milk syrup with liquor. Add vanilla.

It’s done.

The liqueur itself tastes pretty good. Over ice it would make a nice martini of sorts…

by Tim Dineen

Joey's Camembert Caramel Crunch

This was created by our dear friend, Joey, for work many moons ago. It’s a perennial favorite that we’ve served for years, ofttimes switching out the Camembert for a Brie or other soft-ripened cheese. It’s fantastic no matter what you use it with!

It is a quick and easy—and extremely tasty—hors d’oeuvre. It takes no time to prepare and will please even the most discerning family member or guest.

  • 1 wedge Camembert Cheese – or soft-ripened cheese of your choice
  • 1 jar Fleur de Sel Caramel Sauce
  • 1 pkg Candied Pecans
  • 1/2 bag Golden Berry Blend

Place cheese on an attractive plate and bring to room temperature.

Heat caramel sauce, pecans, and golden berry blend and pour over cheese.

Serve as is or with baguette slices or your favorite cracker.

No need to heat or bake the cheese!

by Tim Dineen

Christmas Cookies 2016

'Tis the Season!

The annual excessive cookie baking has started! Well... Making the doughs and fillings has started - we actually won't be baking until next weekend. We have a system.

I really do love this time of year. The lights are up, the house is decorated, Christmas music playing in the background, and an Excel spreadsheet of what cookies we're making this year. Yes, I do a spreadsheet, although nowadays it's really just to keep track of the cookies we want to make this year. In my slightly-more-neurotic past, I'd have ingredient lists with cups of flour, sugar, spices, et al, tallied and compiled, knowing down to a gnat's ass how much butter and vanilla was needed. We did a lot more baking back then.

Today, I just buy the stuff when I see it. Flour we have - tons of it. I use Italian "00" flour for pretty much everything and ordered 20 kilos for the holidays. I need more powdered and brown sugars, so only 5 doughs and two fillings done, today. I'll pick all of that up - along with more granulated sugar - tomorrow. Nuts and chocolate in the cupboard, candied peels all made, nonpareils, sprinkles, and all those fun things downstairs. I think we're fairly well set.

One thing I want to make again, this year, is Torrone - Italian nougat.  I haven't made it in several years but it's calling my name. I've never been a really good candy-maker because it really requires paying attention and being exact - neither of which are in the top 10 of my better attributes. But I've succeeded, before. I can do it, again.

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And then there is biscotti - quite a few variations, there, from Uncle Rudy's traditional to a new one I want to try this year with cocoa glazed almonds. Pizzelles, of course, Aunt Emma's Apricot Cookie, Cuccidati - those fillings are already made. The doughs for Pfeffernusse, Mom's Spice Cookies, Coconut Balls, and Almond Cookies are also made.

I have a recipe for a slice-and-bake fruitcake cookie that looks pretty good, and Auntie's Rum Balls will be made tomorrow once I have the powdered sugar. It ages well, so I like to make it in advance and let it sit in the 'fridge to mellow.

I'm heading in to make the Ricotta Cookie dough once I finish this. We'll see what else I'm in the mood to do.

Too much fun!

 

 

by Tim Dineen

Coconut Balls

New for 2016!

  • 3 cubes butter
  • 1/2 cup powdered sugar
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp coconut extract
  • 3 cups flour
  • 1 cup coconut flour

Cream butter with both sugars and salt.  Add coconut extract and mix in flour and coconut flour, being careful not to overmix.

Roll dough into large marble-sized pieces.  Place on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.  Bake about 20-30 minutes at 325° until nicely browned. Cool completely and roll in powdered sugar, if desired.

Alternately… Press thumb into unbaked ball to form thumbprint.  Fill with your favorite jam.  Bake as directed above.

by Tim Dineen

Cuccidati

Cuccidati is a Sicilian Christmas Cookie we have been making for some time. I’ve played with the original recipe a lot and add pistachios and Marsala – because it’s Sicilian! The filling needs to be made at least one day in advance – a couple is better – to let the flavors meld.

The first image on the left shows three different ways of making the same cookie. It’s also traditional to cut the ends to form an “X”.

I’ve changed the recipe – again. For 2017, I made the dough with butter instead of lard – and the dough was richer.

Have fun with it!

 

The Filling

  • 1 lb dried figs
  • 1 lb dried dates
  • 1/4 lb raisins
  • 1/4 lb dried cherries
  • 1 seeded tangerine-peel and all
  • 1 1/2 cups pistachios
  • 1 small can crushed pineapple
  • 1 cup Marsala
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp cinnamon

Working in batches, finely mince the dried fruit, tangerine, crushed pineapple, and nuts in a food processor. Transfer to a large bowl and mix well. Add the sugar, Marsala, and cinnamon, and mix it all together. Filling will be sticky but should hold together if pressed. Place in container and refrigerate for a day or two to meld the flavors.

The Dough

  • 5 cups flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 1/4 cups butter
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • pinch salt

Cream sugar and butter until light. Add eggs one at a time and then vanilla and milk and mix well.

Mix flour with baking powder and slowly add one cup at a time until a reasonably-firm – but not sticky or dry – dough is formed. Refrigerate about an hour.

To Make Cookies

Preheat oven to 350°F. Take a piece of dough and roll into a rope about an inch and a half around. Roll into a long, flat shape.

Take a piece of filling and roll it into a rope and place down the center of the dough. Brush one edge with egg wash and roll dough over filling to seal.

Cut on an angle about every half-inch and place on parchment-lined cookie sheets.

Bake 13-15 minutes or till lightly browned.

Cool and frost, as desired, with milk and powdered sugar glaze and sprinkles.

by Tim Dineen

The Day Before The Holiday

The only thing better than a holiday is celebrating the day before while the weather is still good. And we had some great weather, today.

We headed all the way to Berwyn. We sucked it up, got Nonna into the car, checked the traffic report, and started our trek. Three miles, door-to-door. It's farther than my work commute, but we made it. Exhausted from our travels, we needed sustenance. And sustenance, we had!

I'll spare the chips and dips, cheeses, crackers, beer and liquor selection, and cut to the chase...

Ribs. Fall-off-the-bone tender ribs - cooked over coals the way barbecue was intended.

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Little burgers - the perfect size considering everything else we were eating.

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Salmon and salmon en croute, because every party needs salmon...

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And the sides...

Quinoa and shredded jicama that I somehow missed getting a picture of, a patriotic cauliflower, blue potato, and tomato salad...

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More potatoes, this time with peas, tomatoes, and onions...

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Corn and black bean with avocado...

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Deviled Eggs... Notice the red, white, and blue theme?!?

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And the desserts... watermelon with blueberries...

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Here's Miles devouring one...

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Chocolate Chip Biscotti.

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Blueberry Pound Cake.

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Red, White, and Blue Rice Krispie Treats.

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And a Patriotic Prosecco!

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As is typical, we had way too much food and I am way-stuffed. It was a fun crowd, ranging from 94 year old Joann to 19 month old Stella. The weather was perfect for sitting outside and letting the kids run free. We left Blanche at home as the little kids are a bit intimidated by a dog bigger than they are. Stella, at 19 months, doesn't want to have a lot to do with most people or creatures, right now. She'll get over it. She doesn't have a lot of choice with this crowd.

Miles is still dealing with some food allergies, so I made the Rice Krispie Treats totally vegan and nut free. It was fun watching him dive into them. I didn't get a picture of that, though.

And it was fun just sitting around talking and laughing and not having to do anything but eat and drink.

And in just a couple of months we get to do it with my family in California!

Can't wait!!!

 

 

 

 

 

by Tim Dineen

Easter 2016

What a fun, relaxing day!

You'd think with 15 people coming to dinner, little kids, a crazy dog, and a dozen dishes to prepare that there would be just a little bit of chaos or angst. There wasn't. It was as smooth-sailing and drama-free as a day could be.

Part of it was because we actually planned out what we were doing. The other part was we've been doing this for awhile, now. Moving furniture to create the table and all is done by rote. Phone table to the powder room, wicker to the living room. There's no running around looking for stuff - it's already been found.

We started off with hors d'oeuvres and wine in the dining room - a room way too small to actually eat in. We start here with Uncle Rudy's Easter Pie. It's a family favorite and definitely one of mine. Victor makes this every year and a couple of years back went from making a full double crust to a lattice crust. It really lets the filling shine! Recipes at the end!

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I went down to Reading Terminal Market on Monday and picked up stuff for appetizers and sides. It's a great food emporium!  I picked up a Valencay French Goat Cheese form Downtown Cheese, and a sharp provolone left over from the Easter Pie.

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And caperberries, stuffed peppers, marinated artichokes, and a slew of different olives...

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When I ordered the ham from Robertson's in Oklahoma - yes, our dinner ham came from Oklahoma - I also got a stick of jalapeno summer sausage. Outrageously good. The ham, thick slices of prosciutto, and really awesome aged pepperoni were also leftovers from the Easter Pie. Waste not, want not...

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Another RTM find was golden beets. Victor has never been a huge fan of beets - those pickled things in a can will never be found in our home - but he's learned to like the golden ones - and we even grew red beets this past fall and he liked them, a lot!

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They were definitely a hit! And really easy to put together. Recipe follows.

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The two main entrees were our Ham From Oklahoma and a side of salmon. I went for a boneless ham for the first time just to see how they were, along with ease of preparation. I was impressed. They do a good job with them, as well.

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The salmon was a take on a recipe I found in Fine Cooking magazine. It's a unique combination of spices and flavors served with braised fennel and apples.

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Some things are just meant to be...

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Green beans and carrots...

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And roasted potato medley... Having double ovens really makes the job easy.

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Marie brought her Pineapple Bread Stuffing... Easter is the only time she makes it so we have to take advantage of it no matter where Easter is held. It's really good!

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And that glass you barely see at the top of the picture? It's a Star Wars promotional glass from Burger King in 1977. Yes... once upon a time the giveaways at the fast fooderies were actually made of glass. I had a whole bunch of them once upon a time. Down to four...

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But back to food... Instead of dinner rolls, I opted for a loaf of one of my favorite breads - Pane Pugliese. Instead of my normal Italian '00' flour, I went with King Arthur's Artisan Flour this time around - and wasn't impressed. For this bread, anyway, I really do prefer the '00' flour. I'll try some other recipes with the King Arthur - maybe a San Francisco-style sourdough. But I won't be using it for my Italian breads...

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And then, of course, we had desserts. I had been staring at the cover of this La Cucina Italiana magazine for two years and finally decided it was going to be a part of Easter. It's definitely a special occasion dessert because it is a bit of a production to make... But worth every step.

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Leah made a Ricotta cake that really rocked! I wish I had gotten a better picture - this one doesn't do it justice.

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Marie brought cookies...

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and cookies for the kids...

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And when I was at Reading Terminal I picked up a pound of sesame cookies at Termini Bros. Sorry to say - they sucked. Totally flavorless - and $20/pound. Even Nonna wouldn't eat them - and she will eat almost any cookie on the planet. Into the trash they went...

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But one bogus store-bought cookie didn't ruin the day. Three year old Miles finally petted Blanche - she outweighs him by 40 pounds, easily - but they're making peace. It gets easier every time. We also celebrated three March birthdays and Uncle Tom winning United Pilot of the Year. Pretty cool.

A great day of fun, food, and family... The next big event will be Nick & Sam's wedding in June - and then we get to fly west to see all my family for Sean and Maggie's wedding in September. Can't wait!

The recipes:

 

Easter Pie

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  • 1 1/2 lb whole milk Ricotta
  • 4 eggs
  • 1/2 cup cheese - we used cubed provolone this time, but any grated cheese will also work
  • 1/4 lb ham, diced
  • 1/4 lb prosciutto, diced
  • 1/4 lb pepperoni, diced
  • Garlic Powder
  • Pepper
  • Italian Seasoning
  • Parsley

Place pie crust in plate. Mix all ingredients and pour into crust and top with second crust.

Bake at 375°F/190°C for 45 minutes to 1 hour – the crust should be nice and golden brown and the filling set.

 

Golden Beets

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  • Golden Beets
  • Garlic
  • Olive Oil
  • Balsamic Vinegar
  • Parsley
  • Salt and Pepper

Preheat oven to 350°F/180°C.

Clean and trim beets. Rub with olive oil and place in oven-safe dish. Add 1/4" water to dish, cover with foil, and bake until tender - time will vary depending on size of beets. Cool and peel.

Mix minced garlic with olive oil and let sit to infuse. Drizzle strained oil over beets, drizzle good-quality balsamic over, and then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Finish off with chopped parsley.

 

Salmon with Fennel

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For the spice rub:
  • 1 tbsp coriander
  • 2 tbsp ground sumac or sweet paprika
  • 2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
For the fish and fennel:
  • Four 6-oz. salmon fillets
  • 4 1/2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 tbsp honey
  • olive oil
  • 1 small fennel bulb, quartered, cored, and sliced lengthwise
  • 1 Granny Smith apple, cut into matchsticks
  • Salt & pepper, to taste
  • Fennel pollen

Preheat oven to 425°F/220°C.

Mix coriander, sumac, lemon zest, and salt. Rub liberally over salmon. Place in hot oven for about 10 minutes or until desired doneness.

Cut apples - a mandoline really works, here - and mix with with lemon and honey. Set aside. Saute fennel in olive oil until soft. Remove from heat and let cool, slightly. Stir in aples and mix well. Add salt and pepper, if desired.

Remove salmon from oven, plate, and top with fennel and apple mixture. Sprinkle with fennel pollen.

 

Chocolate and Sour Cherry Torta

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Crust

  • 1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour plus more for dusting
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
  • ½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces plus more for greasing pan

Filling

  • 3 large eggs
  • 7 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70%), finely chopped
  • ½ cup blanched almonds
  • ⅓ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
  • ⅔ cup sugar
  • 1½ cups sour cherries in syrup, drained (from 24-ounce jar)
  • 1 bittersweet chocolate bar for shaving

For Crust: Place flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor; process for a few seconds to combine. Add butter, and process until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 10 seconds. With machine running, add 3 tablespoons ice water in a slow, steady stream through the feed tube, just until the dough holds together. Do not process for more than 30 seconds. Turn out dough onto a work surface; flatten to form a disc. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 1 day before using.

Heat oven to 350º with rack in middle. Grease the 9-inch springform pan with butter, then dust with flour. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out dough to a 12-inch round. Fit crust into pan. Chill in refrigerator until ready to fill.

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For Filling: Separate eggs, placing 3 yolks in one bowl and 2 whites in another (save remaining white for another use). In a heatproof bowl in a microwave oven, heat chopped chocolate at medium power at 15-second intervals, stirring between intervals, until melted, about 1½ minutes; set aside to cool. In the bowl of a food processor, combine almonds, flour and salt; pulse until mixture resembles fine flour.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, beat together butter and 7 tablespoons sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. With machine running, add egg yolks one at a time, incorporating between additions. In a slow and steady stream, add melted chocolate. Reduce speed to low, then add almond flour, mixing just until incorporated.

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Fold in half the cherries. In a large, clean bowl, beat together egg whites and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar until shiny, soft peaks form.

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Gently but thoroughly fold whites into chocolate mixture. Spread remaining cherries in bottom of prepared crust, then pour in batter.

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Bake until filling is puffed and just set, 50 to 55 minutes. Let cool in pan on wire rack for 15 minutes, then run a thin, sharp knife around edge of pan to loosen. Remove pan sides. Let cake cool completely.

Just before serving cake, hold chocolate bar with a paper towel. Pass a vegetable peeler over the side of the bar to create shavings. Pile shavings on top of cake. Dust with cocoa.

 

 

 

 

 

by Tim Dineen

La Vigilia and Crab Cioppino

The Feast of the Seven Fish... Christmas Eve was once a day of abstinence in the Catholic Church - no meat - and  La Vigilia as it is referred to in Southern Italy - came into being early on. Far from being a day of fasting, it is a day of feasting. Italians know how to turn a simple meal into an extravaganza!

We're missing the Seven Fish up in North Jersey this year but we still wanted to uphold the tradition. Victor and I are home alone with Blanche, while Nonna is up with the rest of the family. But seven fish is a lot for two people - even for us. So... our Seven Fish tonight is Crab Cioppino! All Seven Fish in one pot. It's something I've wanted to do for a really long time - and tonight I have my chance! This is the first time in 21 years we've spent Christmas by ourselves. While it's not something I'd want to do every year, it's been a lot of fun, so far.

 

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I was a bit concerned about finding dungeness crab being 3000 miles from home and considering there's a massive algae bloom going on out west. There are high levels of domoic acid in the crabs and right now there is no crab fishing at all in California and Oregon. But the seafood gods were on my side and I was able to find frozen dungeness crab at our local fish market. The place was packed this morning when I went in - they take their Seven Fish really seriously around here - but there was my crab in their freezer case waiting for me.

Frozen. But t was some damned good crab!

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In fact, it was some of the best crab I've had in years! And it was frozen. Go figure. I know I'll be heading back there for more. In fact, I'll be heading back there for a lot of things. They had a great selection of all types of seafood.

The cioppino came out great. Really great. The broth was rich and flavorful with just a hint of heat. The seafood all cooked to perfection. Even the calamari was tender - and we all know what little rubber bands they can be. It really, really was good.

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There's no way one can make cioppino for two. I made enough for dinner tonight, lunch tomorrow, and dinner for Steve and Marie to take home tomorrow night when they drop off Nonna. I'm stuffed - and already thinking about having more tomorrow!

To go along with the cioppino, I also baked rolls - Pane all'Olio - from Carol Field's Italian Baker. It's one of my most favorite bread books and every recipe I've made has come out perfect! These were no exception. A nice crust and a really tender crumb. The oil really makes a difference.

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Here goes the recipe. Hopefully I'll get everything included... It's been a work in progress...

Crab Cioppino

  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 bulb fennel, chopped
  • 2 bell peppers, chopped
  • 6 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 bottle red wine
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 4 bottles clam juice
  • 3 28oz  cans San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes
  • 3 lbs dungeness crab legs and claws
  • 1 lb shrimp
  • 1 lb clams
  • 1 lb Alaskan cod chunks
  • 1/2 lb calamari
  • 1 lb scallops
  • 1 jar anchovies
  • 1 tsp red pepper flakes - more or less, to taste
  • 1 tsp Greek oregano
  • 3 bay leaves
  • Salt & Pepper

Get a large pot.

Saute onion, fennel, bell pepper, and garlic in olive oil until vegetables are quite wilted and beginning to get tender. Stir in the anchovies and red pepper flakes and cook until anchovies dissolve. Add one bottle red wine - I used a really good chianti - and bring to a boil. Simmer about 10 minutes and add the clam juice and vinegar.

Add the canned tomatoes, breaking them up as you add each can.

Add about a teaspoon of Greek oregano, a pinch of salt and a hefty pinch of black pepper. Bring to a boil, and then simmer about an hour.

At this point you can turn off the heat and save it for later or bring it to a boil and carry on...

Add the dungeness crab.

Add the clams.

Add the cod chunks.

Add the shrimp.

Add the scallops.

Finally, add the calamari.

From start to finish on adding and cooking the fish should be about 20 minutes.

Ladle into large bowls - discarding any unopened clams - and serve with crusty bread.

Forget the napkins. Have several kitchen towels available. This is one messy meal as half of it is eaten with your fingers.

And it is worth every spot and stain you can make!

 

 

 

 

by Tim Dineen

Christmas Cookies 2015

 

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It's beginning to look a lot like Diabetic Coma...

That means it's the Annual What Were We Thinking I Thought We Were Going To Cut Back Christmas Cookie-A-Thon!

Yeppers... we done did it, again. More cookies than we planned on making - which only means more cookie-eating. We'll worry about the diet in 2016.

We made several of the traditional cookies, starting with Aunt Emma's Apricot Cookies and four different Biscotti. Victor makes the Biscotti - and he has it down to a science! A triple batch of Aunt Dolores' Rum Balls... Almond Cookies made into Thumbprints...

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And a couple of new cookies for us. We made a Soft Sugar Cookie this year - rolled in colored sugar. Festive. These came from The Food Network.

 

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Something fun and a bit of a different take on a traditional Sugar Cookie.

The real fun cookie, though, is the Cuccidati!

These are a Sicilian Christmas Cookie that we've both had in the past, but where or when escapes us... I had done a Google Search for Italian Christmas Cookies - note that we have been trying to cut back so I did a Google search for more recipes - and found dozens of recipes for the cuccidati that all had pieces or parts that sounded good - but not quite what I wanted - so I took the best from many and came up with a pretty darned good filling - if I do say so, m'self!

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These will be topped with a milk and powdered sugar glaze and then topped with either sprinkles or colored sugar. The Italians really like their sprinkles - me, not as much - but tradition is tradition.

There's also a version where they're dipped in egg and rolled in sesame seeds before baking. I thought I might do some of them like that and ended up not. Oh well. An excuse to make them, again.

Cuccidati

The Filling - should be made a day or two in advance

  • 1 lb dried figs
  • 1 lb dried dates
  • 1/4 lb raisins
  • 1/4 lb dried cherries
  • 1 seeded tangerine-peel and all
  • 1 1/2 cups pistachios
  • 1 small can crushed pineapple
  • 1 cup Marsala
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp cinnamon

Working in batches, finely mince the dried fruit, tangerine, crushed pineapple, and nuts in a food processor. Transfer to a large bowl and mix well. Add the sugar, Marsala, and cinnamon, and mix it all together. Filling will be sticky but should hold together if pressed. Place in container and refrigerate for a day or two to meld the flavors.

The Dough

  • 5 cups flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 1/4 cups lard
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • pinch salt

Cream sugar and lard until light. Add eggs one at a time and then vanilla and milk and mix well.

Mix flour with baking powder and slowly add one cup at a time until a reasonably-firm - but not sticky or dry - dough is formed. Refrigerate about an hour.

To Make Cookies

Preheat oven to 350°F. Take a piece of dough and roll into a rope about an inch and a half around. Roll into a long, flat shape.

Take a piece of filling and roll it into a rope and place down the center of the dough. Brush one edge with egg wash and roll dough over filling to seal.

Cut on an angle about every half-inch and place on parchment-lined cookie sheets.

Bake 13-15 minutes or till lightly browned.

Cool and frost, as desired, with milk and powdered sugar glaze and sprinkles.

 

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And just because one does not live by cookies, alone, I made a big tray of Fudge with Crushed Peppermint Candy topping.

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We still have a Greek Walnut Cookie to bake off - dough is made - and then we need to chocolate-dip and/or decorate and then start making trays.

It really is a fun tradition...

 

by Tim Dineen

Starting the Christmas Cookies

Oh the weather outside is delightful...

It's 72° today in beautiful, sunny Pennsylvania. 72°. On the 13th of December. About 30 degrees higher than normal.

I think we'll grill, tonight.

It's funny... I never really associated Christmas and cold during the first 20 years of my life, but I've lived in the snow for a large portion of the ensuing 43... The Tahoe years were some of the most fun - and irresponsible, I might add. Illegally cutting down trees to fit in the living room with the 20' ceiling was always fun. Recreational drugs and copious amounts of alcohol were usually involved. Really... Have you ever seen what a 20-foot Christmas Tree can do to a room? It fills it up, that's for damned sure. Not to mention the ropes needed to keep it from falling over. It's not like we actually cut a flat base or had a proper stand. We tried stringing popcorn one year, but you can't string too much popcorn when you're stoned and eating it faster than you can get in on the thread...

Ah... sweet youth...

As I moved back and forth across the USofA and pretended to mature, more times than not I ended up in another snow-place... Quite a few Christmas' in Boston. That was always fun. Boston had been a city for some 350 years when I moved there - and every time it snowed, they acted like it was the first time they had ever seen the white stuff fall from the sky. Truly incredible. Buffalo, on the other hand, just kept moving. It could be blizzarding outside and folks just went about their business like it was a balmy spring day.

I began to equate Winter with Cold, and Cold with Cookies. Not a bad association in the grand scheme of things...

While I always baked Christmas Cookies, the real cookie-baking didn't take off until Victor moved west in 1994. Then it got serious. At our peak, we were baking thousands of cookies. Really. Multiple thousands. We baked, wrapped, packaged, and shipped cookies. We were nuts. Totally insane.

We'll probably barely break a thousand this year. We've cut way back. We're still nuts, but it's much more manageable, now...

There's definitely a benefit to having the windows open no matter what the time of year, so while I would prefer the weather to be seasonal, I'm going to enjoy every shorts-wearing day we get.

And keep making cookie dough.

Mele Kalikimaka.

 

by Tim Dineen